Science
Mechanism of Action
The extract operates via a dual-action pathway: it inhibits tyrosinase activity and downregulates the Mitf protein to reduce melanin synthesis while simultaneously suppressing MMP-1 enzymes to prevent collagen degradation. Additionally, it acts as a lipolytic agent by hindering lipid accumulation and provides anti-inflammatory relief by suppressing COX-2 and TNF-α mediators.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence0.05%
Key findings
- 01 Concentrations as low as 0.0025% to 0.01% significantly accelerated human dermal fibroblast (HDFa) migration and wound recovery in scratch assays.
- 02 An antioxidant threshold (IC50) was observed at 0.0045%, showing free radical scavenging capabilities comparable to industry-standard antioxidants.
- 03 A 0.1% concentration demonstrated measurable inhibition of melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells, confirming its potential as a brightening agent.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because this extract shows biological activity at extremely low thresholds (0.0025%), it is frequently 'label-dusted' in formulations at negligible amounts that do not reach the 0.1% required for significant brightening effects.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The extract is highly stable in aqueous solutions; however, its phenolic bio-actives are thermolabile and sensitive to UV, requiring processing temperatures below 40°C.
Synergies
- Vitamin C
- Niacinamide
- Hyaluronic Acid
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Highly acidic formulations (pH < 4.0)
Safety
Safety Profile
Oral toxicity data indicates a high margin of safety (LD50 > 5000 mg/kg). While not yet reviewed by the CIR, it is recognized by the EU CosIng and International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A high-performance botanical that offers scientifically backed repair and brightening benefits even at ultra-low concentrations.
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References
Sources