Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions by modulating the NOTCH1 signaling pathway, which is critical for the balance between skin cell proliferation and differentiation. It actively upregulates the synthesis of Filaggrin, Keratin 10, and intracellular ceramides to fortify the lipid barrier. Additionally, it provides antioxidant protection by scavenging free radicals and suppresses MMP-1 expression to prevent collagen degradation induced by UV exposure.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence1%
Key findings
- 01 In vitro 3D human skin models treated with 100 μM concentrations demonstrated significant increases in ceramide levels and structural proteins (Filaggrin and Keratin 10), accelerating epidermal turnover.
- 02 Concentrations between 7.5-30 μg/mL were shown to inhibit UVB-induced photoaging by reducing MMP-1 levels and successfully recovering Type I procollagen in dermal fibroblasts.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because it is effective at low concentrations and carries a sophisticated chemical name, brands often 'dust' it into formulas at symbolic levels (<0.05%) to claim barrier-repair benefits without providing the therapeutic dose required for significant Filaggrin upregulation.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Displays high salt tolerance and excellent stability in aqueous systems and emulsions. Maintain pH below 8.0 to prevent oxidation of the gallate moiety.
Synergies
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Niacinamide
- Ceramides
- Vitamin C
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Highly alkaline environments (pH > 8.0)
Safety
Safety Profile
Recognized by the EU CosIng database as safe for cosmetic use; typically derived from botanical sources like the Red Maple and considered non-irritating.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A precise, multi-functional molecule that bridges the gap between surface hydration and deep structural barrier repair.
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References
Sources