Science
Mechanism of Action
It enhances epidermal water transport via Aquaporin 3 and protects against UVB-induced collagen breakdown by inhibiting MMPs through MAPK signaling. Its furanocoumarin and terpene content also provide antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 WO2012052695A1 (LVMH Recherche)
- 02 Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B (2016)
- 03 WO2012052695A1 (Google Patents)
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
No data suggests this ingredient is commonly dusted at effective concentrations.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Stable in standard emulsions, but sensitive to high heat and should be added below 40°C. Solubility varies by extract type.
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Strongly alkaline environments (pH > 8.0)
Safety
Safety Profile
Contains phototoxic furanocoumarins, leading to IFRA limits of approximately 0.78% for leave-on products exposed to sunlight. Furanocoumarin-free extracts may permit higher concentrations.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This extract is a valuable multi-functional ingredient, offering significant hydration, anti-aging, and photo-protective benefits, though careful formulation is needed due to potential phototoxicity.
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