Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract primarily inhibits Matrix Metalloproteinases (MMPs) and modulates MAPK/AP-1 pathways to combat photoaging and collagen breakdown. It further improves skin hydration by stimulating Aquaporin 3 (AQP3) expression and provides anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects via furanocoumarins.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 PubMed (PMID: 26363453): Inhibition of UVB-induced MMPs, preventing collagen degradation.
- 02 Newthingsbio.com: Antioxidant capacity, circulation enhancement, improved radiance and age spots reduction.
- 03 ResearchGate: Potent antioxidant protection against lipid peroxidation.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Efficacy is observed across a broad dose range, from very low concentrations for molecular effects to higher percentages for antioxidant protection. The noted maximum concentration of 0.78% is a safety guideline related to furanocoumarins, not an indication of efficacy limits.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Extracts are sensitive to light and heat due to volatile terpene content; vacuum or cold processing is preferred to maintain bioactive integrity.
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- High UV exposure (increases phototoxic potential)
- Strongly alkaline environments
Safety
Safety Profile
While not reviewed by CIR for leaves, IFRA and SCCS monitor furanocoumarin content for phototoxicity. Leave-on products may have concentration restrictions.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A multi-functional extract offering significant antioxidant and anti-aging benefits, particularly effective in preventing collagen degradation and improving skin hydration, though careful formulation is needed due to potential phototoxicity at higher concentrations.
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References
Sources