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ANDROSACE UMBELLATA EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS - / ANTIOXIDANT

A botanical extract derived from the rock jasmine plant that targets multiple pathways of skin aging and hyperpigmentation. This alpine-sourced ingredient combines potent melanogenesis inhibition with elastase protection, offering dual benefits for brightening and anti-aging formulations.

antioxidant skin-brightening anti-aging soothing

Science

Works by downregulating key melanogenesis proteins including tyrosinase, TRP-1, and MITF transcription factor while providing elastase inhibition to protect skin structure and deliver antioxidant protection through free radical scavenging pathways.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.0025–0.1%
Optimal

0.0025%

Key findings

  1. 01 32% reduction in melanin content and tyrosinase activity at 0.0025% concentration in melanoma cell studies
  2. 02 69% tyrosinase inhibition and 69% elastase inhibition demonstrated at 0.1% concentration in vitro

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.001%
Red flag below
0.001%

With proven efficacy at 0.0025%, concentrations below 0.001% would likely provide minimal functional benefit despite marketing claims


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Maintains stability in aqueous systems within pH 5-7 range but shows thermal sensitivity above 45°C in gel matrices

Synergies

  • vitamin C
  • niacinamide
  • kojic acid

Conflicts

  • strong oxidizers
  • extreme pH conditions

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

No formal regulatory assessment available; cytotoxicity testing shows >90% cell viability at concentrations up to 100 μg/mL


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A promising multi-functional botanical with solid in vitro efficacy data, though human clinical validation would strengthen its position in precision formulations.


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