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AMP-ISOSTEAROYL HYDROLYZED COLLAGEN.

Valuable CAS 222400-36-4 / ANTISTATIC, CLEANSING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

A modified collagen derivative featuring low molecular weight peptides (1-12 kDa) combined with isostearoyl groups for enhanced skin penetration and film-forming properties. This amphiphilic molecule delivers superior hydration and barrier protection compared to standard hydrolyzed collagen while maintaining excellent skin compatibility across all skin types.

humectant skin conditioning film former emulsifying barrier enhancement

Science

Functions through dual pathways: the hydrolyzed peptides bind water molecules to the stratum corneum for immediate hydration enhancement, while the lipophilic isostearoyl modification improves emolliency and creates a protective film barrier. The peptides may also act as cellular signaling molecules, potentially stimulating fibroblast receptors to promote endogenous collagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.5–5%
Optimal

2.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated significant improvements in skin hydration metrics and measurable reduction in transepidermal water loss versus placebo controls
  2. 02 Enhanced peptide delivery to dermal layers with maintained skin-compatible pH formulations, showing potential for fibroblast stimulation

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.1%
Red flag below
0.05%

Given the established effective concentrations starting at 0.5% and the ingredient's role as both humectant and film-former, concentrations below 0.1% would likely provide minimal functional benefit beyond marketing claims.


The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 3.68 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

Maintains structural integrity up to 60°C with optimal stability in pH range 3.68-5.70, though can be formulated up to pH 6.5 for enhanced skin compatibility

Synergies

  • hyaluronic acid
  • glycerin
  • ceramides
  • peptides

Conflicts

  • high concentration anionic surfactants
  • strongly alkaline ingredients above pH 8.0

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Well-tolerated with primary safety consideration being potential Type I hypersensitivity reactions in individuals with marine-sourced allergies, depending on collagen source


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A scientifically-backed multifunctional ingredient that delivers measurable hydration benefits with excellent safety profile and universal skin type compatibility.


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