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AMMONIUM GLYCYRRHIZATE.

Valuable CAS 53956-04-0 / FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING

A water-soluble derivative of licorice root extract that serves as a potent anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing agent. This botanical compound works by modulating multiple inflammatory pathways while enhancing local cortisol activity for comprehensive skin calming benefits.

Soothing Skin conditioning Anti-inflammatory Flavoring

Science

Functions through multi-pathway inflammatory modulation by blocking phospholipase A2 and cyclooxygenase enzymes to reduce prostaglandin formation. Additionally inhibits 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 2, preventing cortisol breakdown and maintaining elevated local anti-inflammatory cortisol levels. Further suppresses hyaluronidase activity and NF-κB activation pathways.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 3–5%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated no skin irritation or sensitization potential in clinical testing on healthy volunteers
  2. 02 Confirmed absence of phototoxicity and photosensitization effects in human subjects

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

Well-established ingredient with clear regulatory approval and defined usage parameters, making dusting unnecessary


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4 – 6
0 7 14

Stability

Forms rod-like micelles in weakly acidic solutions around pH 5.0. Achieves optimal stability at pH 5.77 with dramatically improved solubility above pH 4.0. Compatible with glycerin and propylene glycol but insoluble in oil phases.

Synergies

  • Glycerin
  • Propylene glycol
  • Other water-soluble soothing agents

Conflicts

  • Strong acids causing glycyrrhizic acid precipitation
  • High-concentration anionic surfactants
  • Highly alkaline formulations

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

CIR Expert Panel confirms safety in current usage practices. Minimal skin absorption noted. Quality control should monitor heavy metal residues (Lead <1mg/kg) due to botanical origin.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A well-researched, multi-mechanism anti-inflammatory with excellent safety profile and universal skin type compatibility.


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