Get a Free 5ml Mini Now Free 5ml Mini With Every Order of The Mantle

AMMONIUM COCOYL SARCOSINATE.

Valuable CAS 223705-35-9 / CLEANSING, FOAMING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

A mild anionic surfactant derived from coconut fatty acids and the amino acid sarcosine that provides gentle yet effective cleansing while creating rich, stable foam. Beyond its primary cleansing function, this ingredient uniquely acts as a penetration enhancer, temporarily altering stratum corneum structure to improve absorption of other actives. Its balanced profile makes it suitable across all skin types, including sensitive skin formulations.

surfactant cleansing foaming penetration enhancer

Science

Functions as a surface-active agent that reduces water's surface tension, enabling efficient removal of oil, debris, and impurities from skin and hair. Additionally modifies lipid organization in the outermost skin layer, creating temporary pathways that enhance penetration of companion ingredients without compromising barrier integrity.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–12.9%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 CIR clinical irritation studies at 5% in leave-on products demonstrated non-irritating and non-sensitizing properties
  2. 02 Safety validated in rinse-off formulations up to 12.9% with low oral toxicity and absence of mutagenic effects

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

Primary surfactant ingredient with established safety profile and clear concentration guidelines


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Exhibits excellent stability in neutral to mildly alkaline conditions with optimal thickening properties around pH 5.5-6.0; demonstrates higher solubility compared to parent fatty acids

Synergies

  • Other mild surfactants for balanced cleansing systems
  • Active ingredients requiring enhanced penetration

Conflicts

  • N-nitrosating agents
  • Cationic surfactants
  • Highly acidic formulations below pH 5.0

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Approved for rinse-off applications at higher concentrations; restricted to 5% maximum in leave-on products; avoid combination with N-nitroso compounds due to potential carcinogenic N-nitrososarcosine formation


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A well-researched, gentle surfactant that delivers effective cleansing with bonus penetration-enhancing properties across all skin types.


Related

Finding similar ingredients…