Science
Mechanism of Action
It acts through multiple pathways, including inhibiting melanin synthesis for brightening, modulating NF-κB and IRF3 to reduce inflammation, and scavenging free radicals. Its astringent properties also help tighten pores.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence0.78%
Key findings
- 01 Calculated safe-use range for leave-on products based on SCCS parameters and quantitative risk modeling for skin sensitization.
- 02 In-vitro testing showed increased testosterone and steroidogenic enzyme expression, suggesting potential age-related skin support.
- 03 Essential oil significantly increased IL-5/IL-2 ratios, demonstrating anti-inflammatory potential through Th2 polarization.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Optimal stability is achieved at slightly acidic pH (4.0-6.0) to prevent polyphenol degradation; essential oil components require oil-solubilization. Note that darkening may occur over time due to oxidation.
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Highly alkaline environments (pH > 7.0)
Safety
Safety Profile
Not formally reviewed by CIR, but a leave-on limit of 0.78% is suggested due to β-asarone content, which is a potential carcinogen and GHS Category 1B skin sensitizer.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A valuable multi-functional ingredient, offering soothing, brightening, and anti-aging support, provided it is formulated strictly within the calculated safe-use range of 0.78% for leave-on applications.
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References
Sources