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ACETYLATED C10-40 HYDROXYALKYL ACID CHOLESTEROL/LANOSTEROL ESTERS.

Valuable / HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING

This complex ester combines acetylated long-chain (C10-40) hydroxy acids with cholesterol and lanosterol. It functions as a high-performance biomimetic emollient, designed to reinforce the skin's natural lipid barrier.

emollient skin-conditioning hair-conditioning

Science

By integrating into the stratum corneum's intercellular lipids, this ingredient effectively 'plugs' gaps in the barrier. This action prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL), providing a substantive protective film and restoring skin flexibility.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–5%
Optimal

3%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrates significant improvement in skin barrier function and hydration, effectively reducing TEWL and aiding in the repair of compromised skin like cracked lips/heels.
  2. 02 Serves as a benchmark for biomimetic lipid replacement, integrating into the stratum corneum to restore flexibility, particularly in extremely dry or aged skin.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

Highly stable due to acetylation, which prevents oxidation and rancidity compared to non-acetylated sterols. It is a thick, viscous paste/liquid at room temperature requiring melting into the oil phase (60°C–80°C).

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Strongly acidic environments (pH < 3.0) may cause slow hydrolysis

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
100%
Sensitization risk Low

Reviewed by the CIR Expert Panel under 'Alkyl Esters', considered non-sensitizing and non-irritating at typical use levels. FDA and SCCS recognize these esters as safe for cosmetic applications.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Medium

Our Assessment

Valuable

This biomimetic emollient is highly valuable for improving skin barrier function, providing significant hydration, and restoring flexibility, particularly for dry and compromised skin types.


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