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Moumoujus

ACER NIKOENSE BRANCH/STEM EXTRACT.

Questionable / SKIN CONDITIONING

A botanical extract derived from the Nikko maple tree that provides antioxidant and skin conditioning benefits through its unique profile of diarylheptanoids and phenolic compounds. While historically used for skin brightening applications, this extract requires careful consideration due to safety concerns associated with its rhododendrol constituent.

Summary

Skin conditioning Antioxidant Anti-inflammatory

Science

Mechanism of Action

Functions through dual pathways: activates the Nrf2-mediated expression of Heme Oxygenase-1 (HO-1) for cellular antioxidant protection, while its diarylheptanoids and phenolic compounds can modulate tyrosinase activity and inhibit inflammatory mediators like nitric oxide and TNF-alpha.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.5–1%
Optimal

0.75%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated significant melanogenesis inhibition through tyrosinase activity reduction at 0.5-1.0% concentration
  2. 02 Showed potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties via Nrf2 pathway activation

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Limited commercial availability due to safety concerns regarding rhododendrol content makes dusting analysis not applicable

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

Requires slightly acidic conditions for stability; phenolic constituents degrade in alkaline environments above pH 8.0 and may generate free radicals

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Strongly alkaline ingredients
  • Iron salts

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk High

Contains rhododendrol, which caused widespread product recalls in Japan (2013) due to drug-induced leukoderma (white blotches). Exercise extreme caution, particularly in brightening formulations.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Questionable

While demonstrating promising antioxidant properties, the significant safety concerns associated with rhododendrol content make this extract unsuitable for most precision skincare applications.

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