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ABIES ALBA NEEDLE OIL.

Optional CAS 90028-76-5 / PERFUMING

A natural essential oil extracted from Silver Fir needles, rich in monoterpenes and bornyl acetate compounds. This aromatic oil demonstrates antioxidant properties and tyrosinase inhibition activity, making it valuable for addressing hyperpigmentation and inflammatory skin concerns. Its effectiveness is highly concentration-dependent, with therapeutic benefits observed between 0.1-2% formulations.

perfuming masking tonic antioxidant

Science

Functions through multiple pathways including free radical scavenging via DPPH/ABTS mechanisms, suppression of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as IL-1 to reduce skin redness, and tyrosinase enzyme inhibition to prevent excessive melanin production and fade post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation marks.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.1–2%
Optimal

1%

Key findings

  1. 01 1% concentration showed no cytotoxic effects on human skin fibroblasts after 24-hour exposure
  2. 02 5% concentration demonstrated significant cell toxicity within 3-6 hours
  3. 03 2.7% achieved 50% DPPH radical reduction, indicating moderate antioxidant capacity

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
2%
Red flag below
5%

Frequently included at low concentrations primarily for fragrance and masking properties rather than therapeutic skin benefits, with concentrations above 2% raising safety concerns due to cytotoxicity potential.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Extremely susceptible to oxidation due to high terpene content, requiring antioxidants like tocopherol during manufacturing and storage in cool, dark, airtight conditions to prevent sensitization risk from degradation products.

Synergies

  • Tocopherol
  • Natural antioxidants

Conflicts

  • Strong acids
  • Strong alkalis
  • Oxidizing agents
  • Extreme heat

Safety

CIR Status
Not independently reviewed by CIR
Max tested
5%
Sensitization risk Moderate

Regulated under EU Annex III with peroxide value requirements below 10 mmoles/L. IFRA maximum 5% in fragrance concentrates. FDA-approved as natural flavoring substance.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Moderate
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Optional

A moderate-efficacy ingredient with specific antioxidant and anti-pigmentation benefits, but limited by stability concerns and narrow safe concentration range.


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