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3-LAURYL/TRIDECYLGLYCERYL ASCORBATE.

Valuable / ANTIOXIDANT, HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING

An innovative amphiphilic vitamin C derivative that combines ascorbic acid with lipophilic alkyl chains for enhanced skin penetration and stability. This dual-phase molecule delivers the brightening and antioxidant benefits of vitamin C while providing humectant properties through its glycerin-derived structure.

antioxidant humectant skin conditioning brightening

Science

Penetrates the skin barrier efficiently through its lipophilic alkyl chains, then undergoes enzymatic hydrolysis by esterases to release active L-ascorbic acid. The released vitamin C inhibits tyrosinase activity to reduce melanin production, neutralizes free radicals, and stimulates collagen synthesis while the glycerin-derived component provides hydration.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.1–1%
Optimal

0.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Melanin suppression and brightness improvement at 0.1-1.0% concentration
  2. 02 Enhanced skin hydration and barrier function at 0.5% concentration

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

Effective concentrations start at 0.1% with clinical benefits demonstrated up to 1.0%, making dusting unlikely to be beneficial


The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Exceptionally stable compared to pure L-ascorbic acid with resistance to oxidation and discoloration. Functions as co-emulsifier due to amphiphilic properties.

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • High pH environments above 8.0
  • Strongly acidic environments below 3.5

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
10%
Sensitization risk Low

Safety profile supported by component safety data for ascorbic acid and glyceryl ethers


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Valuable

A well-engineered vitamin C derivative that addresses traditional stability concerns while delivering proven brightening and hydrating benefits.


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