Science
Mechanism of Action
Functions as a prodrug that enzymatically releases pure vitamin C upon skin absorption. Inhibits tyrosinase activity to reduce melanin production for brightening effects, scavenges reactive oxygen species to prevent photoaging damage, and serves as a cofactor for prolyl hydroxylase to stimulate collagen synthesis. The glyceryl component simultaneously acts as a humectant, drawing moisture into the skin barrier.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 At 2-10% concentration: demonstrates melanin production inhibition and enhanced collagen synthesis through proline/lysine hydroxylation pathways
- 02 At 1-5% concentration: shows superior moisturizing performance versus L-ascorbic acid while maintaining equivalent antioxidant activity
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Effective concentrations begin at 1%, making sub-0.5% amounts insufficient for meaningful vitamin C delivery or hydration benefits
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Heat-sensitive ingredient requiring water phase incorporation below 40°C to maintain potency. Demonstrates exceptional oxidative stability compared to L-ascorbic acid derivatives.
Synergies
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Niacinamide
- Peptides
Conflicts
- High electrolyte concentrations >2%
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate >30%
- Strong electrophiles
Safety
Safety Profile
Recognized as safe within ascorbic acid derivative category with established use concentrations up to 10% in commercial formulations
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A well-researched vitamin C derivative that effectively combines antioxidant protection with hydration benefits across all skin types.
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References
Sources