Science
Mechanism of Action
Trans-UCA absorbs UV-B/UV-C radiation (max 267-280 nm), converting energy to heat for photoprotection. Upon UV exposure, it photoisomerizes to cis-UCA, known for immunomodulatory properties that suppress T-cell-mediated responses.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 A 5% cis-UCA emulsion decreased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and erythema in mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis patients within 10 days, though PGA and EASI improvements were not statistically significant.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Trans-urocanic acid photoisomerizes to cis-UCA upon UV exposure (optimally 300-310 nm), potentially leading to photosensitization and immunosuppression. The cis isomer is associated with health risks.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel concluded in 1995 that insufficient data exists to determine the safety of urocanic acid in cosmetic products. The cis-UCA isomer is linked to health risks and immunosuppressive properties.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
As a natural NMF component, Urocanic Acid shows potential for hydration and atopic dermatitis, but its safety for cosmetic use is uncertain due to insufficient data and concerns regarding its photoisomerized cis form.
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References
Sources