Science
Mechanism of Action
As an NMF component, Urea is a potent humectant that draws and retains moisture, strengthening the skin barrier and reducing TEWL. At higher doses, it provides keratolytic action by softening keratin, promoting cell renewal, and enhances the penetration of other active ingredients, also possessing antimicrobial properties.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence
Effective range
2–40%
Optimal
5%
Key findings
- 01 Concentrations of 2-10% provide general hydration, address mild dryness, and are well-tolerated across most skin types, including sensitive skin. Notably, 4% urea outperformed 20% glycerin in reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) for atopic dermatitis patients.
- 02 A 5% concentration effectively enhances hydration without significant irritation and has been shown to reduce relapse risk in hand eczema with prolonged use.
- 03 At 10-20%, Urea exhibits effective keratolytic action, smoothing rough, scaly patches common in conditions like keratosis pilaris and providing sufficient exfoliation for dry, flaky skin.
- 04 High concentrations, such as 40%, demonstrate proteolytic action for damaged nails and are an excellent alternative for localized hyperkeratotic plaques of psoriasis.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Not commonly dusted
The Formula
Formulation
Optimal pH
6 – 7.5
0 7 14
Stability
Highly water-soluble, Urea is stable across a wide pH range (optimal 6.0-7
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References
Sources