Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient is hypothesized to function similarly to its constituent parts: silk proteins and serine. It is believed to create a protective barrier on the skin and hair, reducing moisture loss by binding to keratin. Serine, a prominent amino acid in silk, contributes to its hydrophilic nature and is associated with promoting collagen production. Furthermore, the broader class of silk proteins often exhibits antioxidant properties.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Specific data regarding 'dusting' (overuse leading to diminishing returns or negative effects) for UNDECENOYL SERINE/SILK AMINO ACID METHYL ESTERS is not available. General guidelines for amino acid derivatives typically apply.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
General silk proteins, such as sericin, demonstrate sensitivity to variations in pH and temperature, making them susceptible to degradation. Sericin's solubility is higher in hot water (above 50-60°C) and decreases at lower temperatures, potentially leading to gel formation. Degradation can occur under elevated temperatures, pressures, or highly alkaline conditions. For instance, sericin can be fully hydrolyzed by alkaline proteases at 60°C and pH 7. Certain silk films, however, have shown stability in PBS buffer at a physiological pH of 7.4.
Conflicts
- Alkaline conditions
- Elevated temperatures/pressures
- Alkaline proteases (e.g., at 60°C, pH 7)
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has not specifically reviewed UNDECENOYL SERINE/SILK AMINO ACID METHYL ESTERS for a safety conclusion, though they have evaluated numerous other silk protein derivatives (e.g., Fibroin, Hydrolyzed Silk). Toxicity data (oral, dermal, inhalation) for this specific ingredient is listed as 'Not determined' by The Good Scents Company, with no GHS classification. It's noted that highly processed amino acid ingredients are generally not considered risk materials for infectious agent transmission by the FDA. Paula's Choice has not yet rated this ingredient.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
While related silk proteins and amino acids demonstrate promising moisturizing, protective, and antioxidant properties for skin, specific clinical efficacy and safety data for UNDECENOYL SERINE/SILK AMINO ACID METHYL ESTERS are currently insufficient to make a definitive recommendation.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…