Science
Mechanism of Action
Trisodium Glycyrrhizate exerts its anti-inflammatory effects by inhibiting the enzyme 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 2 (11β-HSD2), which in turn increases local cortisol concentrations. This mechanism suppresses key pro-inflammatory cytokines, including interleukin-1 (IL-1), interleukin-6 (IL-6), and tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α). Furthermore, it functions as an antioxidant by scavenging free radicals and enhancing the activity of endogenous antioxidant enzymes, such as superoxide dismutase (SOD) and glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px), thereby protecting skin cells from oxidative damage. Related disodium glycyrrhizinate has also demonstrated tyrosinase inhibiting activity, suggesting pigment-reducing efficacy.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Promoted wound healing and skin regeneration with increased collagen I density in adult and elderly Wistar rats upon topical application.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
While poorly absorbed systemically, Trisodium Glycyrrhizate's skin bioavailability may be enhanced when co-formulated with film-forming polymers or diphenyl ether. It is generally water-soluble as a trisodium salt.
Synergies
- Film-forming polymers (to enhance bioavailability)
- Diphenyl ether (to enhance bioavailability)
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed Trisodium Glycyrrhizate and its related glycyrrhizate compounds safe for current cosmetic uses and concentrations. These ingredients exhibit minimal percutaneous absorption and are not identified as irritants, sensitizers, phototoxic, or photosensitizing agents at established maximum use concentrations. The CIR Panel advises that raw material specifications should ensure pesticide and toxic metal residues remain below acceptable limits (e.g., total PCB/pesticide < 40 ppm; arsenic < 3 mg/kg, heavy metals < 0.002%, lead < 1 mg/kg). No specific SCCS or FDA regulatory status for cosmetic applications of Trisodium Glycyrrhizate was identified; however, FDA UNII 5VWB9ZP8JV is assigned.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Trisodium Glycyrrhizate is a valuable soothing and anti-inflammatory agent, offering antioxidant protection and potential brightening benefits across all skin types with a low risk of irritation.
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