Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions as a powerful anti-inflammatory by inhibiting key mediators such as prostaglandins and histamine in the skin, which consequently reduces redness, swelling, and discomfort. It also operates by inhibiting the 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 2 (11β-HSD2) enzyme, leading to elevated local cortisol concentrations and suppression of pro-inflammatory cytokines like IL-1, IL-6, and TNF-α. This action imparts a mild, cortisone-like effect without the typical side effects of synthetic steroids. Furthermore, it assists in regulating sebum production, addressing concerns such as acne, and helps mitigate post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceEfficacy is observed within a concentration range of 0.05% to 1.0% in cosmetic formulations. While a related compound, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate, demonstrated wound healing benefits at 2% in animal models, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) recommends a maximum concentration of 1% for these derivatives in cosmetics to ensure safety.
Key findings
- 01 Studies indicate that Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate (DPG), a closely related compound, promotes skin wound healing in vivo by modulating inflammatory processes, including cytokine expression, granulation tissue formation, angiogenesis, and re-epithelialization.
- 02 DPG is typically incorporated at levels between 0.05% and 2% in finished products for its anti-irritancy effects, proving particularly beneficial when combined with potentially irritating active ingredients such as retinoids or alpha hydroxy acids.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Tripotassium Glycyrrhizinate readily dissolves in water and exhibits optimal stability within a pH range of 6.5 to 7.5. Related glycyrrhizin compounds show high thermal stability, enduring temperatures up to 121°C across a pH range of 4.5-9.5. Formulators should be aware of its mild electrolyte nature, which may slightly decrease formula viscosity. The addition of an antioxidant can help prevent oxidation and potential color shifts.
Synergies
- Enhances compatibility of potentially irritating active ingredients like retinoids and alpha hydroxy acids by mitigating irritation.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel concluded that Glycyrrhetinic Acid and its salts, including Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate and Potassium Glycyrrhizinate (a synonym for Tripotassium Glycyrrhizinate), are safe in current cosmetic uses at concentrations up to 1%. These ingredients are not considered irritants, sensitizers, phototoxic agents, or photosensitizers. Licorice and its derivatives are generally recognized as safe (GRAS) by the FDA for direct food use, though with some restrictions on glycyrrhizic acid levels. No specific SCCS opinion was identified for Tripotassium Glycyrrhizinate.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Tripotassium Glycyrrhizinate is a valuable ingredient due to its powerful anti-inflammatory, soothing, and sebum-regulating properties, making it highly compatible across all skin types for addressing irritation and various skin concerns.
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