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Moumoujus

THIOGLYCOLIC ACID.

Valuable CAS 68-11-1 / ANTIOXIDANT, DEPILATORY, HAIR WAVING OR STRAIGHTENING, REDUCING

Thioglycolic Acid is a potent organic acid recognized for its diverse applications, notably its efficacy in addressing specific forms of hyperpigmentation and its function as a chemical peeling agent. This versatile ingredient also serves as a strong reducing agent, commonly found in hair depilatories and permanent wave solutions.

Summary

exfoliant pigmentation reducer reducing agent antioxidant depilatory

Science

Mechanism of Action

Thioglycolic Acid operates through several mechanisms on the skin. As a chemical peel, it facilitates controlled exfoliation, promoting the removal of superficial skin layers and subsequent regeneration of the epidermis and dermal tissue. For specific pigmentary concerns like pigmented purpuric dermatosis, its sulfhydryl (-SH) group exhibits a strong binding affinity for iron molecules, effectively solubilizing them to aid in pigment clearance.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 5–12%
Optimal

10%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated efficacy as a gel peel for pigmented purpuric dermatosis (PPD), with clinical observations noting slight discomfort and discreet erythema.
  2. 02 Found to be an effective gel for constitutional infraorbital hyperpigmentation (under-eye circles), with reported patient satisfaction.
  3. 03 Topically utilized in the treatment of hemosiderotic hyperchromias, indicating a broader effective range for iron-related pigmentation.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Thioglycolic Acid is a highly active ingredient with potent effects and significant safety considerations, making it unsuitable for 'dusting' or inclusion at sub-effective or uncontrolled percentages.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 7 – 12.7
0 7 14

Stability

Thioglycolic Acid is susceptible to oxidation by air and maintains stability at room temperature in closed containers. Gel preparations (approximately 8.8% TGA) demonstrate superior stability when stored in glass bottles compared to polyolefin over time. Thioglycolate salts are typically formulated at mildly alkaline pH, commonly around 9.5, with general formulation pH ranges from 7.0-9.5 for hair waving and 7.0-12.7 for depilatories.

Conflicts

  • air (oxidizes)
  • strong oxidizers
  • bases
  • active metals (e.g., sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
15.2%
Sensitization risk Moderate

The CIR Expert Panel considers Thioglycolic Acid and its derivatives safe for use in hair products up to 15.2% (as Thioglycolic Acid). However, for depilatories, it is deemed safe only when formulated to be non-irritating under recommended use conditions. The SCCS classifies Thioglycolic Acid as Skin Corr. 1B (causes severe skin burns and eye damage). It can act as a cumulative irritant and a weak sensitizer under occlusive patch testing. Health Canada restricts general hair waving/straightening to 8%, professional use to 11%, and depilatories to 5%. Similar restrictions apply in the EU Cosmetics Regulation. Direct skin contact should be avoided, particularly for professionals.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy High
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Thioglycolic Acid is a valuable ingredient for highly targeted pigmentation correction and precise exfoliation. However, its significant irritancy potential and strict regulatory guidelines necessitate expert formulation and cautious application for optimal safety and efficacy, limiting its suitability for general use.

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