Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient, as a hydrolyzed collagen derivative, supplies essential amino acids that serve as precursors for the synthesis of new collagen and elastin fibers within the skin. Its oligopeptides are understood to stimulate fibroblast activity, promoting the natural production of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. Furthermore, it functions as a humectant, enhancing epidermal hydration and minimizing transepidermal water loss. The myristoyl moiety may facilitate improved skin absorption or contribute to its surfactant capabilities.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
This ingredient exhibits high water solubility. The incorporation of a myristoyl fatty acid derivative may confer a degree of oil compatibility, potentially facilitating interaction with lipid phases in formulations or enhancing skin penetration. While beneficial for skin conditioning, hydrolyzed collagen alone does not form films and often requires co-formulation with other biopolymers for structural integrity.
Conflicts
- N-nitrosating agents
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel deemed related Triethanolamine Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen safe for cosmetic use, contingent on significant restrictions. The Triethanolamine (TEA) moiety can act as a precursor for N-nitrosamine formation; therefore, this ingredient must not be combined with N-nitrosating agents in formulations. As an animal-derived component, stringent controls are necessary to ensure the absence of detectable pathogenic viruses, infectious agents, and biological impurities. The FDA considers gelatin, the source of collagen peptides, a safe substance. Historic data from 2001 reported a maximum usage concentration of 1% for a similar ingredient in bubble baths.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
TEA-MYRISTOYL HYDROLYZED COLLAGEN presents potential as a skin conditioner and hydrator, but its formulation demands meticulous attention to safety restrictions regarding nitrosamine precursors and animal-derived sourcing, alongside a current absence of specific clinical efficacy data.
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References
Sources