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TEA-LAUROYL HYDROLYZED COLLAGEN.

Valuable / CLEANSING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

TEA-Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Collagen is a sophisticated fatty acid protein derivative, designed to function as a mild surfactant and wetting agent in formulations. Beyond its role in improving product texture and foaming, it delivers hydrolyzed collagen components that significantly enhance skin hydration, promoting a smoother appearance and providing vital amino acid building blocks for dermal support.

Summary

Skin Conditioning Surfactant - Cleansing Moisturizing Hydration Wetting Agent Foaming Agent

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions on two primary levels. Firstly, as a triethanolamine-neutralized fatty acid protein derivative, it acts as a surfactant and wetting agent, optimizing foam and solubility in cosmetic formulations. Secondly, the hydrolyzed collagen fraction enhances the skin's intrinsic capacity to absorb and retain water, leading to improved tissue hydration, a visibly smoother complexion, and a reduction in the appearance of fine lines. It also supplies free amino acids crucial for collagen and elastin synthesis and contains oligopeptides known to stimulate fibroblast activity, promoting the natural production of new collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid within the skin.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 In human patch tests, a 10% concentration was found to be non-irritating.
  2. 02 Rabbit studies showed varying irritation responses, from mildly irritating to severely irritating (Primary Irritation Index = 3.05) when applied undiluted.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 2.5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Hydrolyzed collagen-containing formulations maintain stability within a pH range of 2.5 to 7.0. The isoelectric point (pI) of hydrolyzed collagen typically shifts to between 3.68 and 5.7 post-hydrolysis.

Conflicts

  • N-nitrosating systems must be avoided due to the potential for nitrosamine formation from the Triethanolamine (TEA) component.
  • Raw materials require strict adherence to EU regulations, including a minimum purity of 99%, a maximum secondary amine content of 0.5%, and a maximum nitrosamine content of 50 µg/kg, to be stored in nitrite-free containers.
  • Cannot form films independently and necessitates co-formulation with other biopolymers for film-forming properties.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
2.5%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Panel has reaffirmed this ingredient's safety in current cosmetic practices, with assessments for sensitization and photosensitization being re-evaluated and safety re-confirmed in a tentative June 2025 report. Due to its Triethanolamine (TEA) content, it is subject to EU Annex III restrictions for trialkylamines, trialkanolamines, and their salts, including mandates against use with nitrosating systems and strict raw material purity standards. The FDA classifies gelatin, the source of collagen peptides, as safe, emphasizing the importance of minimizing impurities in animal-derived ingredients.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Medium
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

A multifunctional ingredient offering both mild cleansing and significant hydrating benefits, though its formulation requires strict adherence to safety guidelines regarding TEA content to ensure product integrity and minimize irritation risk.

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