Science
Mechanism of Action
As a mild anionic surfactant, TEA-Cocoyl Sarcosinate functions by reducing surface tension, facilitating the emulsification of water with sebum and impurities. This action enables their effective removal from skin and hair without stripping essential moisture. Its modified fatty acid structure also grants it the ability to enhance the dermal penetration of co-formulated ingredients.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Clinical studies at a concentration of 5% demonstrated that acyl sarcosines and sarcosinates, including TEA-Cocoyl Sarcosinate, were non-irritating and non-sensitizing in leave-on cosmetic applications.
- 02 Research on related sarcosinates indicates their ability to reduce trans-epidermal water loss by forming a hydrophobic protective layer on the epidermal surface, suggesting a mild, barrier-supportive effect.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
This ingredient functions primarily as a surfactant and cleansing agent; therefore, 'dusting' (under-dosing an active ingredient for marketing purposes) is not a relevant concept for its typical application and efficacy profile.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Optimal performance for cocoyl sarcosinates, characterized by minimal surface tension, occurs between pH 5.5 and 7, with a deep minimum around pH 7. Formulations with a pH below 5 should be strictly avoided as the insoluble acid form of the surfactant may predominate and separate as a second phase.
Conflicts
- Nitrosating agents, which can react with sarcosine to form N-nitrososarcosine, a known animal carcinogen. This is a critical consideration due to the Triethanolamine (TEA) component.
- Strong oxidizing agents, as inferred from studies on related sarcosinates, may lead to degradation.
- Ingredients whose safety relies on minimal dermal absorption, as sarcosinates can enhance skin penetration.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that TEA-Cocoyl Sarcosinate is safe for use in rinse-off products and safe in leave-on products at concentrations up to 5%, provided the final product is formulated to be non-irritating. A significant safety concern is the potential for forming N-nitrososarcosine, a known animal carcinogen, when used in conjunction with nitrosating agents. Formulators must ensure such conditions are rigorously avoided, particularly given the 'TEA' component, which necessitates adherence to Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) regulations regarding nitrosamines in cosmetic products.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
TEA-Cocoyl Sarcosinate is a valuable, mild cleansing and foaming agent compatible with all skin types, provided rigorous formulation practices are adhered to, specifically preventing nitrosamine formation.
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