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Moumoujus

TEA-COCOYL HYDROLYZED COLLAGEN.

Avoid CAS 68952-16-9 / ANTISTATIC, CLEANSING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

TEA-Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen is a fatty acid protein derivative functioning primarily as a skin-conditioning agent and humectant. It is designed to enhance skin hydration, suppleness, and reduce flaking, contributing to a healthier skin appearance. This ingredient also offers surfactant and cleansing properties, often utilized to moderate the harshness of other cleansing agents in formulations.

Summary

Antistatic Cleansing Agent Emollient Film Forming Hair Conditioning Humectant Skin Conditioning Surfactant

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient works by supporting the skin's intrinsic barrier functions and significantly boosting hydration as a humectant. It helps to improve the overall look and feel of dry or compromised skin by restoring its natural suppleness and minimizing visible flaking. Beyond its conditioning roles, it also acts as a surfactant and cleansing agent, capable of creating foam and assisting in the emulsification and removal of impurities, while also imparting antistatic benefits.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range 0.2–2%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Typical usage rates for general hydrolyzed collagen, which functions as a humectant and skin conditioning agent, are observed to be between 0.2% and 2.0% in various skin and hair care applications.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

TEA-Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, a fatty acid protein derivative, is neutralized with triethanolamine, enhancing its foaming and solubility characteristics. This neutralization contributes to improved stability and compatibility within cosmetic formulations. Its optimal performance is typically observed within a pH range of 5.0-6.5.

Conflicts

  • N-nitrosating agents (e.g., nitrites) should be avoided in formulations, as the triethanolamine (TEA) component can react to form potentially harmful nitrosamines.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
1%
Sensitization risk High

Although the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen ingredients, including TEA-Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, are 'safe as used' in current cosmetic practices and concentrations, this status carries significant qualifications. Rabbit skin irritation studies showed varied responses: non-irritating at 10%, but mildly/slightly irritating when undiluted in two studies, and severely irritating (PII = 3.05, max 8) in another. Human Repeated-Insult Patch Tests (HRIPT) with the related Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen at 10% (aqueous solution) revealed allergic contact sensitization, cumulative irritation, and non-specific irritation in a notable number of subjects (5 out of 168). Photosensitization was also documented for both ingredients. A critical concern arises from the triethanolamine (TEA) component, which can lead to nitrosamine formation if formulated with N-nitrosating agents. Regulatory bodies like the SCCS imply safety with strict restrictions on nitrosamine levels. Furthermore, EWG rates this ingredient with 'Moderate Allergies & Immunotoxicity' and 'High Use Restrictions,' citing strong evidence of human skin toxicant or allergen potential. FDA VCRP data indicates a significant decrease in reported uses, with no uses reported in 2023, down from 20 uses in 2001, and no concentrations reported in recent data, suggesting reduced industry usage.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy High
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Avoid

Despite its potential as a humectant and skin conditioner, TEA-Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen presents a high risk of irritation, sensitization, and photosensitization in humans, coupled with a critical concern for nitrosamine formation, rendering it unsuitable for precision skincare formulations.

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