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Moumoujus

TALLOWAMIDE DEA.

Questionable CAS 68140-08-9 / ANTISTATIC, EMULSION STABILISING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SURFACTANT - FOAM BOOSTING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

Tallowamide DEA is a multi-functional diethanolamide primarily utilized as a surfactant to enhance foam and product distribution. It also acts as an emulsifier and viscosity modifier, improving formulation stability and texture, while offering emollient properties.

Summary

Emulsifying Emulsion stabilising Foam boosting Surfactant Viscosity controlling

Science

Mechanism of Action

On the skin, Tallowamide DEA functions as a surfactant, promoting uniform product dispersion and boosting foam generation. It increases the viscosity of aqueous systems, contributing to formulation stability and reducing sedimentation. As an emulsifier, it facilitates the homogeneous blending of oil and water, thereby extending product shelf life. The ingredient also provides emollient benefits. Human skin amidases possess the capability to metabolize diethanolamides, potentially yielding diethanolamine and corresponding fatty acids.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

This ingredient class, exemplified by Capramide DEA, demonstrates stability in alkaline environments, with aqueous solutions showing a pH range of 9.5-10.5.

Conflicts

  • Nitrosating agents (due to potential formation of carcinogenic N-nitroso compounds)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Sensitization risk Unknown

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel deems diethanolamides, including Tallowamide DEA, safe under specific conditions: formulations must be non-irritating, and free diethanolamine (DEA) levels must remain below established safe thresholds. Crucially, these ingredients must not be used in products where N-nitroso compounds can form, given the potential for carcinogenic nitrosamine generation. While the FDA does not prohibit DEA, it advises consumer vigilance regarding ingredient labels. A 1998 National Toxicology Program (NTP) animal study suggested a link between topical DEA application and cancer, attributed to residual DEA; however, this link has not been established in humans. California's Proposition 65 identifies Cocamide DEA, a related compound, as a cancer-causing agent. EWG indicates high concern for "Use Restrictions" and "Developmental and Reproductive Toxicity," with lower concern for "Cancer" and "Allergies & Immunotoxicity."

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Questionable

Given the critical restrictions on its use to prevent carcinogenic nitrosamine formation and animal study findings suggesting cancer links, Tallowamide DEA is a questionable ingredient for precision skincare formulations.

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References

Sources