Science
Mechanism of Action
As a non-ionic oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifier, Sucrose Stearate effectively integrates immiscible oil and water components, preventing phase separation and ensuring product stability. On the skin, it functions as an emollient by forming a protective surface barrier that significantly reduces transepidermal water loss, thereby locking in moisture to soften and smooth the skin. Its surfactant properties also contribute to gentle cleansing, and in certain applications, it has been observed to enhance the dermal penetration of other active ingredients.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence0.5%
Key findings
- 01 Evaluated for emulsifying potential in O/W emulsions. Concentrations at 5% w/w demonstrated increased viscosity and the formation of a hydrophilic network in macroemulsions, with levels above 5% w/w resulting in highly viscous, creamy emulsions.
- 02 In a 24-hour occlusive patch test on human subjects using a nanoemulsion, Sucrose Stearate produced no visible adverse skin reactions and was deemed tolerable, although a slight decrease in stratum corneum hydration was noted.
- 03 These concentrations represent typical application dosages for its roles as a co-emulsifier or primary emulsifier.
- 04 Identified as the dosage for achieving light, low-viscosity emulsions.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Sucrose Stearate is typically incorporated into cosmetic formulations at functional concentrations, ranging from 0.5% when used as a co-emulsifier to 5% as a primary emulsifier, indicating its use for specific performance benefits rather than merely for ingredient list presence.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Sucrose Stearate exhibits good water solubility and, when heated above its melting point (67-71°C), readily dissolves in water, ethanol, and glycerine. As a non-ionic O/W emulsifier, it effectively stabilizes oil and water phases. While generally very stable and compatible with a wide array of performance ingredients, fragrances, acids, and bases, emulsions stabilized by Sucrose Stearate demonstrate decreased stability in highly acidic environments, particularly as the pH approaches 2.5.
Synergies
- Compatible with performance ingredients
- Compatible with fragrances
- Compatible with acids (within optimal pH range)
- Compatible with bases
Conflicts
- Decreased stability in highly acidic environments (below pH 5.0, significant at pH 2.5)
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that saccharide esters, including Sucrose Stearate, are safe for use in cosmetics at current practices and concentrations. While a specific maximum concentration for Sucrose Stearate itself was not detailed in the CIR's concentration of use survey, other saccharide esters were reported at concentrations up to 87.7% in lipstick. Sucrose Stearate is listed as an inactive ingredient in FDA-approved drug products and is approved as a direct food additive. It is generally considered safe, exhibiting a low potential for skin irritation and is non-comedogenic.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Sucrose Stearate is a valuable, well-tolerated ingredient for precision skincare, offering critical functionality as an emulsifier and stabilizer, coupled with skin-conditioning benefits for stable, hydrating, and elegantly textured formulations.
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