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Moumoujus

SPHAGNUM SQUARROSUM EXTRACT.

Questionable CAS 90131-22-9 / SKIN CONDITIONING

Sphagnum squarrosum Extract is derived from a specific moss species, recognized for its exceptional water retention capabilities. While it exhibits in vitro antioxidant activity and potential tyrosinase inhibition for skin brightening, research indicates a complex interaction with the extracellular matrix that may not be beneficial for anti-aging applications.

Summary

Antioxidant Skin Brightening Hydrating

Science

Mechanism of Action

This extract demonstrates antioxidant activity by inhibiting protein oxidation and suppressing tyrosinase gene expression, contributing to a brighter complexion. However, in vitro studies reveal it can increase the expression of genes encoding collagenase (MMP1) and hyaluronidase (HYAL2, HYAL3, HYAL4), concurrently decreasing hyaluronan synthase (HAS1, HAS2, HAS3) genes. General Sphagnum moss contains polysaccharides like sphagnan, which contribute to its significant water-holding capacity and can influence pH and nitrogen compound binding.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 An in vitro study on normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) demonstrated that a water-ethanol extract of Sphagnum squarrosum inhibits tyrosinase gene expression and exhibits antioxidant activity. Conversely, the study also observed an upregulation of genes for collagenase (MMP1) and hyaluronidase (HYAL2, HYAL3, HYAL4), alongside a downregulation of hyaluronan synthase genes (HAS1, HAS2, HAS3). Researchers concluded that these combined effects might not be advantageous for anti-aging applications.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Conflicts

  • May induce Maillard reactions and bind nitrogen compounds (including amino acids and enzymes) due to components like sphagnan present in Sphagnum moss.
  • May lower the pH of formulations.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Moderate

Specific Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), SCCS, or FDA safety evaluations are not readily available for Sphagnum squarrosum extract. While no direct adverse effects have been reported for this specific extract, general moss extracts have been associated with allergic reactions. The ingredient does not have a found GHS classification or hazard statements according to OSHA HCS.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Questionable

Despite exhibiting antioxidant activity and potential tyrosinase inhibition, in vitro evidence suggests this ingredient may negatively impact crucial skin components like collagen and hyaluronic acid, raising concerns for its efficacy in anti-aging applications.

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