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SORBETH-230 TETRAOLEATE.

Valuable / SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate is a versatile synthetic ingredient, formed from sorbitol and oleic acid, that functions as a mild cleansing agent and effective emulsifier. It enhances product aesthetics and stability by precisely controlling viscosity in diverse cosmetic formulations.

Summary

Cleansing Emollient Emulsifying Viscosity Controlling

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient operates as a synthetic cleansing agent, emulsifier, and non-ionic associative thickener due to its amphiphilic structure, possessing both lipophilic (hydrophobic oleate groups) and hydrophilic (uncapped arms) components. This dual nature allows it to significantly reduce the interfacial tension between incompatible substances like oil and water, facilitating their stable mixing within emulsions. As a thickener, its hydrophobic segments integrate into surfactant aggregates, forming expanded micellar networks that effectively increase the viscosity of liquid cosmetic products. On the skin, it cleanses by binding to oil and dirt particles, enabling their efficient removal with water, while its hydrophilic arms contribute to formulation clarity.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.4–5%
Optimal

2.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 In surfactant systems, Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate concentrations ranging from 0.4% to 5% are standard for thickening, demonstrating robust performance and maintaining formulation clarity.
  2. 02 At a 2.5% concentration, it exhibited superior thickening efficacy compared to other tested thickeners.
  3. 03 Formulations using a blend containing Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate (SorbiThix L-100) at 5% concentration demonstrated a 'zero irritation score' in an in-vitro Hen's Egg Test Chorioallantoic Membrane Test and caused no skin irritation or allergic contact dermatitis in a Repeated Insult Patch Test involving 52 human subjects.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4.5 – 7.5
0 7 14

Stability

The ingredient maintains stability within a pH range of 4.5 to 7.5, but can be susceptible to oxidation and hydrolysis under strong acid or strong alkali conditions. Its thickening power is particularly useful for overcoming clarity and viscosity challenges posed by salts, perfumes, or hydrophobic thickeners. It can be incorporated during cold process manufacturing, with faster dissolution achieved at temperatures of 35°C or higher.

Synergies

  • Compatible with anionic, cationic, and amphoteric surfactants
  • Compatible with various polymers
  • High tolerance for fragrances and glycols

Conflicts

  • Strong acid conditions
  • Strong alkali conditions

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that polyethoxylated sorbitol esters, including Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate, are safe for cosmetic use when formulated to be non-irritating. Human and in-vitro studies confirmed a 'zero irritation score' and no skin irritation or allergic contact dermatitis at a 5% concentration. While the FDA has approved some related sorbitans for specific food uses, the Environmental Working Group (EWG) notes a potential for higher hazard if formulations do not adhere to specific restrictions concerning toxic impurities like Ethylene Oxide and 1,4-Dioxane.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate is a valuable multi-functional ingredient, prized for its effective cleansing, emulsifying, and viscosity-controlling properties, coupled with a low irritation risk across all skin types.

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