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Moumoujus

SODIUM/TEA-UNDECYLENOYL ALGINATE.

Questionable CAS 224580-93-2 / EMULSION STABILISING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING

SODIUM/TEA-UNDECYLENOYL ALGINATE is a multifunctional polymer integral to skincare formulations for its capabilities as an emulsion stabilizer, skin conditioner, and hydrator. Its alginate component actively binds water, promoting a soft and supple skin feel.

Summary

Emulsion Stabilizer Skin Conditioner Moisturizer Hair Conditioner Viscosity Controller Binding Agent Masking Agent

Science

Mechanism of Action

This compound primarily functions by supporting emulsion formation and enhancing product stability, ensuring consistent formulation integrity. On the skin, it acts as a conditioning agent, leveraging the alginate's superior water-binding capacity to effectively hydrate and maintain skin health. Beyond direct skin benefits, it also imparts conditioning properties to hair, aiding in combability, softness, shine, and volume. The alginate component's biocompatibility and moisture-retaining attributes have also been noted for potential contributions to fostering a healing environment for tissue regeneration.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Insufficient-data confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4 – 10
0 7 14

Stability

The alginate component maintains stability within a pH range of 4.0 to 10.0, with peak viscosity observed near a neutral pH. Extended heating can lead to molecular degradation and a permanent reduction in viscosity. Its solubility is also influenced by pH.

Conflicts

  • Calcium salts (may cause instant gelling, if not desired)
  • Nitrosating agents (potential for forming carcinogenic nitrosamines due to the TEA component)
  • Alcohol concentrations above 30% (results in insolubility)
  • Strong acidic solutions below pH 3 (results in insolubility)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Reviewed
Sensitization risk Moderate

Reviewed by the CIR within the Safety Assessment of Plant Polysaccharide Gums. The SCCS deems its use in cosmetics safe, subject to conditions in Annex III of the EC Cosmetics Regulation. These restrictions predominantly address the risk of nitrosamine formation from the TEA component reacting with nitrosating agents, necessitating careful impurity control and avoidance of specific co-ingredients in formulations.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy High
Comedogenicity High

Our Assessment

Verdict

Questionable

While offering valuable benefits as an emulsion stabilizer and skin conditioner, this ingredient presents a notable concern due to its high irritancy and comedogenicity ratings, rendering its use questionable for precision skincare, particularly for sensitive or blemish-prone skin.

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