Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient, a derivative of hydrolyzed collagen, works by supplying free amino acids to the skin, which serve as foundational building blocks for endogenous collagen and elastin synthesis. Its oligopeptides are capable of signaling fibroblasts to elevate production of new collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. Topically, it demonstrably improves stratum corneum hydration, contributing to enhanced skin elasticity and a reduction in the visible appearance of fine lines. Beyond its structural benefits, it functions as an antistatic agent, a cleansing agent, and a conditioning agent for both skin and hair, thereby maintaining overall skin health.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Hydrolyzed collagen's isoelectric point shifts from 7-8 for native collagen to 3.68-5.7 upon hydrolysis. Due to the presence of Triethanolamine (TEA), this ingredient should not be formulated in products where N-nitroso compounds can be formed. An optimal pH range for finished cosmetic formulations was not explicitly identified.
Conflicts
- Ingredients that can lead to the formation of N-nitroso compounds
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel deems this ingredient safe under specific use restrictions. The primary concern arises from the Triethanolamine (TEA) component, which can act as a precursor for N-nitroso compounds. Consequently, it must not be used in formulations where N-nitroso compounds could potentially form. The safety assessment was reopened in June 2024 to re-evaluate potential sensitization and photosensitization risks. In the EU, TEA-Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen is listed in Annex III, subjecting it to restrictions for trialkylamines, trialkanolamines, and their salts. As an animal-derived ingredient, it must be free of detectable pathogenic viruses, infectious agents, or biologically-derived impurities, with heavy metals and pesticides minimized according to regulatory limits.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A valuable hydrolyzed collagen derivative offering hydration and skin conditioning benefits, though requiring careful formulation due to its TEA component and ongoing safety re-evaluation.
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