Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient operates through a dual mechanism. The pea protein component is recognized for its anti-elastase, anti-collagenase, and anti-free radical activities, which collectively safeguard collagen and elastin fibers from degradation associated with aging and environmental stress. This protective action is crucial for strengthening skin elasticity and delivering an anti-aging effect. Furthermore, it aids in the protection and repair of epidermal proteins against external aggressors and functions as a long-lasting hydroregulator by moderating protease activity within the stratum corneum. The 'Stearoyl' moiety grants it surfactant and emulsifying properties, enabling it to effectively blend oil and water phases, thereby stabilizing emulsions and improving product consistency.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Insufficient-data confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Pea protein's solubility and stability are highly pH-dependent, exhibiting notably low solubility and a tendency for aggregation around its isoelectric point (pH 4-5). Enhanced solubility and emulsification properties are observed at neutral pH (around 7), as well as at very acidic (e.g., pH 2.0) or alkaline (e.g., pH 10.99) conditions. Stable solutions have been achieved around pH 4.5 to 5.5 when specific additives, such as carboxymethylcellulose, are incorporated. However, emulsions stabilized by acidic water-soluble pea protein have shown instability and extensive aggregation when exposed to high salt concentrations (e.g., 0.5-1 M NaCl), particularly when combined with heating. The presence of sodium chloride generally decreases pea protein solubility.
Conflicts
- High salt concentrations (e.g., 0.5-1 M NaCl)
- Heating in the presence of high salt concentrations
- Carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) at neutral pH (can cause phase separation)
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel has concluded that Pisum Sativum (Pea) Protein, alongside other plant-derived proteins, is safe for use in cosmetics under current practices. Specifically, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein has been found non-mutagenic in Ames tests at concentrations up to 25%. Its Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) status by the FDA for food products further underscores a high safety profile.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
SODIUM STEAROYL PEA PROTEIN is a valuable multi-functional ingredient, leveraging the anti-aging, protective, and hydrating benefits associated with pea protein while also serving as an essential emulsifier for robust formulation stability.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…