Science
Mechanism of Action
SSL operates primarily as an anionic emulsifier, effectively stabilizing oil-in-water formulations by facilitating the dispersion of oil components within an aqueous phase. This action significantly improves the texture and consistency of creams and lotions. Furthermore, it functions as a skin conditioning agent, imparting a smooth, soft tactile sensation to the skin. As a humectant, SSL forms a gentle moisturizing film on the skin's surface, aiding in hydration. Its emulsifying properties can also enhance the percutaneous absorption of active ingredients within a formulation and contribute to foam stabilization in cleansing products.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Optimal stability is observed within a pH range of 4 to 7. Its phase behavior in water is pH-dependent; at pH below 5, it forms hexagonal II phases above 45°C, while at higher pH (45–85°C), lamellar phases are observed. SSL is insoluble in cold water but dispersible in warm water, and soluble in ethanol and hot oil/fat. It exhibits an HLB value of 10-12, indicating effectiveness as an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifier. For optimal incorporation, heating in warm water (approximately 60°C) prior to adding to formulations is recommended.
Synergies
- Enhances absorption of active ingredients
Conflicts
- Interactions with other ionic components, such as kappa-carrageenan, can be altered by the presence of salts.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel deemed Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate safe for cosmetic use under current practices and concentrations, provided formulations are non-irritating and non-sensitizing. While earlier human skin irritation studies at 2% and 5% in petrolatum showed 'doubtful reactions' suggesting a potential for irritation, Incidecoder rates its irritancy as low. Some individual reports have indicated a possibility of allergic skin reactions. The FDA recognizes SSL as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) for food applications.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate is a valuable multifunctional ingredient, providing crucial emulsification for stable formulations, enhancing skin feel and hydration, and facilitating active ingredient delivery, with a low risk of irritation when formulated precisely.
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References
Sources
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