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SODIUM PALMITOYL HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN.

Questionable CAS 222400-44-4 / CLEANSING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

This is an advanced derivative of wheat protein, carefully hydrolyzed into smaller peptides and then esterified with palmitic acid to enhance its affinity for skin lipids. It is engineered to deeply hydrate the skin, fortify its natural barrier, and provide protection against environmental stressors.

Summary

Hydrating Agent Skin Barrier Support Film-Forming Agent Elasticity Booster Skin Conditioning Agent Anti-Aging Agent Emulsifier Anti-Irritant

Science

Mechanism of Action

SODIUM PALMITOYL HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN functions by penetrating the skin more effectively due to its reduced molecular size and enhanced oil solubility from palmitic acid esterification. Upon application, it aids in moisture retention, significantly improving skin hydration and forming a protective film to shield against external aggressors. This ingredient actively strengthens the skin's protective barrier, minimizing transepidermal water loss, while also boosting elasticity and firmness. Beyond hydration, it can promote skin healing, regulate keratinization processes, and possesses emulsifying properties that can mitigate the irritating effects of other cleansing agents.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Insufficient-data confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

The palmitic acid component significantly increases its oil solubility, facilitating optimal interaction with the skin's natural lipid layers. While no specific optimal pH range for stability in formulations was identified, the manufacturing process for hydrolyzed wheat protein typically involves a pH of 9-10 during hydrolysis.

Conflicts

  • Individuals with diagnosed wheat allergies or gluten sensitivities should strictly avoid this ingredient due to potential allergic reactions, including contact urticaria and anaphylactic shock upon subsequent wheat ingestion.
  • Formulations containing strong surfactants, such as Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate (SDS), may increase the risk of sensitization with this ingredient.
  • Avoid use in products that may be incidentally inhaled (e.g., spray products) due to a lack of inhalation safety data and potential for sensitization.
  • Not recommended for application on damaged skin or mucous membranes.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Sensitization risk Moderate

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel deems hydrolyzed wheat protein derivatives safe for cosmetic use under specific conditions: peptide molecular weight must be restricted to a weight-average of 3500 Da or less (approximately 30 amino acids). It must not be used on damaged skin or mucous membranes, nor in products with potential incidental inhalation. While dermal and ocular irritation studies suggest it is not a significant irritant, the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) has noted safety concerns for sensitized individuals, specifically regarding contact urticaria and anaphylactic shock upon subsequent wheat ingestion. The FDA considers hydrolyzed wheat protein (peptones) as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) for direct food substance use.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Questionable

This modified wheat protein offers significant hydrating, barrier-strengthening, and elasticity-boosting benefits, but its use is strictly restricted for individuals with wheat sensitivities and on damaged skin, warranting careful consideration in formulations.

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