Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions as a mild surfactant, leveraging the fatty acids from coconut and the amino acids, particularly glutamic acid, found in wheat proteins. Glutamic acid is recognized for its high moisture-retentive capacity, contributing to enhanced skin hydration. On the skin's surface, it forms a protective film that helps reduce transepidermal water loss, thereby improving skin firmness and preventing dehydration. As a surfactant, it facilitates a selective and physiological cleansing action, which can effectively reduce the potential for irritation often associated with more traditional anionic surfactants, while also contributing to foaming and providing protective colloidal functions for both skin and hair.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
This ingredient exhibits optimal stability and activity within a pH range of 5.0 to 7.0, forming clear solutions at a pH greater than 6.5. It is important to note that for Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, a related compound, maximum stability and effectiveness are observed at a pH of 6.0 or lower; higher pH levels were found to potentially diminish efficacy and destabilize the formulation.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, a component of this ingredient, is safe for use in cosmetics when its peptides are restricted to a weight-average molecular weight of 3500 Da or less (approximately 30 amino acids). Furthermore, it should not be applied to damaged skin, come into contact with mucous membranes, or be incidentally inhaled. While a related compound, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, demonstrated severe irritation at a 5% concentration in one study, another study found it non-irritating, highlighting the importance of formulation precision and adherence to CIR guidelines for safe use.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A versatile, plant-derived surfactant offering effective yet gentle cleansing alongside significant skin conditioning, hydration, and firming benefits, provided formulation adheres strictly to safety parameters.
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