Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions by decreasing the surface tension of the skin's outermost layer, the stratum corneum, facilitating the efficient removal of impurities and excess oil. As a non-delipidating acylglutamate, it selectively extracts squalane without disrupting vital barrier lipids such as cholesterol, thereby minimizing barrier compromise. It also contributes to luxurious foam formation and can act as an emulsifier, stabilizing oil and water components in formulations.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 At 5% concentration, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate demonstrated superior mildness and the least solubilization of intercellular lipids compared to other surfactants, effectively extracting squalane while preserving essential barrier lipids like cholesterol.
- 02 Aqueous solutions of Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate (up to 30%) are widely utilized in gentle cleansing formulations, including baby care products and facial cleansers.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Optimal stability and activity are observed in formulations with a pH of 6 or below. Higher pH levels may compromise efficacy, destabilize the product, and diminish foaming capabilities. It performs effectively within the skin's natural pH range of 4.5–5.5.
Synergies
- Other anionic surfactants
- Nonionic surfactants
- Alkyl polyglucosides
- Betaines
Conflicts
- Azo and diazo compounds (potential for toxic gas generation)
- Strong reducing agents (potential for flammable gas formation)
- Strong bases (may react to form salts)
- N-nitroso compounds (avoid use in products where these can form)
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel deems Sodium Cocoyl/Hydrogenated Tallow Glutamate safe under current cosmetic use practices and concentrations, provided formulations are non-irritating. Manufacturers must minimize residual peptide production and ensure ingredients containing Triethanolamine (TEA) have Diethanolamine (DEA) levels not exceeding 0.64%. Products must not allow N-nitroso compound formation, and any animal-derived components must be free of pathogenic agents. Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, a similar ingredient, is generally recognized as safe (GRAS) by the FDA for cosmetic applications.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Sodium Cocoyl/Hydrogenated Tallow Glutamate is a highly valuable, mild amino acid-based surfactant that effectively cleanses while safeguarding the skin's delicate lipid barrier.
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