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Moumoujus

SODIUM CAPRYLOYL HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN.

Valuable / CLEANSING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

This ingredient offers a dual-action approach to skincare, combining the hydrating and barrier-supporting benefits of hydrolyzed wheat protein with the antimicrobial and sebum-regulating properties of caprylic acid. It helps improve skin firmness and hydration while targeting concerns like excess oil and the proliferation of certain microorganisms.

Summary

Skin Hydration Barrier Support Sebum Regulation Antimicrobial Support Skin Firming Anti-aging (Wrinkle Appearance Reduction) Hair Conditioning Self-Preservative Enhancer

Science

Mechanism of Action

The hydrolyzed wheat protein component acts by forming a protective layer over the skin's outermost layer (stratum corneum), effectively reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and boosting skin hydration. This also contributes to a more luminous complexion and replenishes the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) with amino acids. The caprylic acid portion contributes to balancing the skin microbiome by helping to control the increase of pathogenic microorganisms, reduce sebum production, and mitigate issues like body odor and dandruff. Together, these actions enhance skin firmness and diminish the appearance of dryness and wrinkles.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Used in a shampoo formulation as part of a composition exhibiting sebum regulating, anti-dandruff, anti-odour, hydrating, and self-preservative properties.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

No information regarding dusting characteristics was provided in the research data.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 3.5 – 5
0 7 14

Stability

Compositions containing capryloyl hydrolysate salts of wheat protein demonstrate increased self-preservative efficacy with a reduction in pH, with optimal stability and self-preservation typically observed within a pH range of 3.5 to 5.0.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
1.7%
Sensitization risk Moderate

The CIR Expert Panel concluded that Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (HWP), the protein component of this ingredient, is safe for use in cosmetics when formulated to restrict peptides to a weight-average molecular weight of 3500 Da or less, or to minimize peptide lengths greater than 30 amino acids. A maximum concentration of 1.7% is recommended for HWP in rinse-off products. This ingredient should not be used on damaged skin or in products that may contact mucous membranes or be incidentally inhaled. The SCCS has noted safety problems related to hydrolysed wheat proteins, including cases of contact urticaria followed by anaphylactic shock after food ingestion, particularly with larger molecular weight hydrolysates, emphasizing the critical importance of molecular weight control.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

A valuable dual-action ingredient for both skin and hair, offering hydration, barrier support, and sebum regulation, provided it is carefully formulated to adhere to specific molecular weight restrictions to ensure safety and mitigate sensitization risks.

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