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SODIUM BEHENOYL/COCOYL (ARGININE/GLUTAMIC ACID/ISOLEUCINE/LEUCINE/LYSINE/PHENYLALANINE/PROLINE/THREONINE/VALINE).

Valuable / CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - FOAM BOOSTING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

This ingredient is a sophisticated amino acid-based surfactant, precisely engineered as a sodium salt derived from behenoyl/cocoyl fatty acids and a comprehensive blend of essential amino acids. It functions to gently cleanse the skin by reducing surface tension while simultaneously providing conditioning and barrier support.

Antistatic Cleansing Surfactant Emollient Emulsifying Emulsion Stabilising Skin Conditioning Viscosity Control

Science

This ingredient operates primarily as a surfactant and cleansing agent, adeptly reducing surface tension to facilitate the mixing of oil and water, thus effectively lifting and removing impurities, dirt, and excess sebum from the skin. Its composition as an amino acid derivative means it also contributes to epidermal health by reinforcing the skin's natural barrier and providing conditioning, as amino acids are fundamental components of structural skin proteins such as keratin, collagen, and elastin, crucial for hydration and overall skin integrity.


Research

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A


Transparency

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Amino acid alkyl amides generally maintain their structure in water, forming zwitterions. Formulating amino acid-based surfactants in a weakly acidic pH range, similar to skin's natural pH, is often preferred to optimize mildness and performance.


Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has evaluated the broader category of 'Amino Acid Alkyl Amides,' which encompasses this ingredient, and deemed them safe for use in cosmetic formulations. While a precise maximum concentration for this specific blend is not documented, analogous 'Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids' are commonly employed in rinse-off products from 0.4% to 2.8%, in leave-on products from 0.4% to 1%, and in cleansers at concentrations reaching 20%.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Valuable

This amino acid-derived surfactant offers effective yet gentle cleansing properties alongside potential skin conditioning benefits, making it a valuable component for a wide range of cosmetic formulations, particularly those aimed at mildness and barrier support.


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