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Moumoujus

SHELLAC WAX.

Valuable CAS 97766-50-2 / BINDING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING

Shellac Wax, a naturally derived resin, acts as a multifunctional ingredient in precision skincare, primarily enhancing texture and providing a protective barrier. It imparts a smooth feel, effectively locks in moisture as an emollient, and forms a resistant film on the skin's surface. This versatile wax also contributes to formulation stability and gloss.

Summary

Binding Skin Conditioning Film-forming Emollient Viscosity Controlling

Science

Mechanism of Action

Shellac Wax functions by creating a cohesive structure within formulations as a binding agent. On the skin, it acts as an emollient, softening the skin and forming a barrier to effectively reduce transepidermal water loss. As a film former, it creates a protective, water-resistant coating, which can also contribute to enhanced gloss and provide a degree of UV protection. Furthermore, it aids in stabilizing emulsions and controlling product viscosity.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.5–8%
Optimal

6%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical studies reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel found no irritation, sensitization, or photosensitization when Shellac Wax was used in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 6%.
  2. 02 Shellac content observed in cosmetic emulsions or hydrogels typically ranges from 0.5% to 20%, with 0.5% to 8% being preferred concentrations for formulation.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

While raw shellac wax dust may cause mechanical irritation to the eyes and respiratory tract with long-term inhalation, this concern primarily relates to industrial handling of the raw material, not to its use in finished cosmetic products where it is fully incorporated into the matrix.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Shellac Wax is practically insoluble in water but exhibits solubility in alcohol, ether, and certain organic solvents. It can also become sparingly soluble or fully soluble in alkaline solutions when warmed. Conversely, it is insoluble under acidic conditions but becomes soluble at higher pH. Quality shellac wax typically possesses a melting point between 70-90°C, and, as a wax, offers inherent resistance to moisture, oxidation, and microbial degradation, contributing to product longevity.

Conflicts

  • Oxidants
  • Incompatible liquid emollients (may lead to 'sweating' or bleeding out of the product structure)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
6%
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel concluded in 2008 that cosmetic-grade Shellac is safe for use in cosmetic and personal care products at concentrations up to 6%. This assessment specifically pertains to refined, wax-free bleached or cosmetic-grade Shellac. Shellac is broadly considered non-toxic and physiologically safe for human use, with the FDA listing it as an indirect food additive. While safe in formulated products, raw shellac wax may cause irritation upon direct skin contact.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Shellac Wax is a valuable ingredient for skincare formulations, offering multifunctional benefits such as enhanced texture, effective moisture retention, and protective film-forming properties, with a strong safety profile at concentrations up to 6%.

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