Get a Free 5ml Mini Now Free 5ml Mini With Every Order of The Mantle
Moumoujus

SHELLAC CERA.

Valuable CAS 97766-50-2 / BINDING, FILM FORMING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Derived from the resinous secretions of the lac insect, SHELLAC CERA is a multifunctional ingredient highly valued in skincare and cosmetics. It acts primarily as a film-forming agent, creating a protective barrier, while also serving as an emulsion stabilizer, binding agent, and emollient to enhance product texture and skin feel.

Summary

Film Forming Binding Emulsion Stabilizing Emollient Viscosity Controlling Skin Conditioning Hair Fixing Hair Conditioning

Science

Mechanism of Action

SHELLAC CERA functions by forming a continuous, protective film on the skin, which aids in shielding against environmental stressors and minimizing trans-epidermal moisture loss. Its binding properties contribute to the cohesion of powdered cosmetic products, and as an emulsion stabilizer, it prevents the separation of oil and water components, thereby maintaining product integrity. Additionally, it offers emollient benefits, promoting softer and smoother skin, and assists in controlling product viscosity.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 A clinical study indicated that Shellac wax, at a concentration of 3% (m/m), effectively facilitates the creation of stable emulsions with water contents up to 60%, underscoring its role in formulation stability.
  2. 02 Clinical assessments of cosmetic formulations containing up to 6% Shellac demonstrated no measurable irritation, photosensitization, or sensitivity issues, primarily establishing its safety profile rather than direct skin efficacy.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Unknown
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Shellac Cera is practically insoluble in water and hexane. It exhibits solubility in alcohol (ethanol), ether, propylene glycol, alkalis, and aqueous ethanolamine solutions, with solubility increasing at higher pH values but remaining insoluble in acidic conditions. For optimal stability, it should be stored in a well-closed container below 27°C, as prolonged storage can lead to polymerization, negatively impacting its solubility, fluidity, and color. The cosmetic industry predominantly utilizes bleached or decolorized Shellac for purity.

Conflicts

  • Aqueous alkalis (chemically reactive)
  • Organic bases (chemically reactive)
  • Alcohols (chemically reactive, despite being soluble)
  • Agents that esterify hydroxyl groups

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
6%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that cosmetic-grade Shellac is safe for use in cosmetic and personal care product formulations at concentrations up to 6%. This conclusion, reaffirmed in 2008, specifically pertains to refined wax-free bleached or cosmetic-grade Shellac. While generally considered non-toxic and hypoallergenic, there is a documented potential for contact dermatitis in a small subset of sensitive individuals, though acute dermal testing has shown no adverse effects for the general population. It is recognized by the FDA as an indirect food additive and is permitted in European cosmetics under general regulations.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

SHELLAC CERA is a valuable multi-functional ingredient that enhances product stability and provides film-forming and emollient benefits to the skin, with a well-established safety profile at concentrations up to 6%.

Related

Similar Ingredients

Finding similar ingredients…