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Moumoujus

SHELLAC.

Valuable CAS 9000-59-3 / BINDING, FILM FORMING, HAIR FIXING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

Shellac is a natural resin primarily utilized in precision skincare formulations for its film-forming capabilities. It contributes to a refined skin feel, enhances product adhesion, and boosts water resistance by creating a continuous, protective barrier on the skin's surface.

Summary

Binding agent Emollient Film forming Hair fixing Viscosity controlling

Science

Mechanism of Action

Functioning as a film-forming and binding agent, Shellac creates a continuous physical film on the skin, which provides a moisture barrier and some protection against ultraviolet radiation. It also acts as an emollient, contributing to skin feel, and as an emulsifier to stabilize oil and water components in formulations. Chemically, it is composed of hydroxyaliphatic and alicyclic acids and their polyester derivatives.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–20%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical assessments of cosmetic formulations incorporating Shellac up to 6% demonstrated no measurable irritation. Furthermore, studies indicate that incorporating Shellac into emulsions (0.1-20%) or hydrogels (0.1-10%) improved skin feel, enhanced adhesion for decorative cosmetics, and significantly increased water stability in sun care products, additionally acting as an anti-salt water/anti-sand agent without imparting an oily film.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 7.2 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

Shellac is soluble in alcohol (e.g., 95% ethanol) and exhibits pH-dependent water solubility, dissolving in alkaline conditions, typically above pH 7.2-7.4, with specific dissolution ranges varying based on acid number. For optimal stability, it should be stored in well-closed containers below 15°C, as prolonged storage can lead to decreased alcohol solubility, reduced fluidity upon heating, darkening, and altered physicochemical properties.

Conflicts

  • strong oxidizing agents

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
6%
Sensitization risk Moderate

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that cosmetic-grade Shellac is safe for use in cosmetic and personal care products at concentrations up to 6%. While the FDA recognizes Shellac as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) for food contact, it is a known contact allergen with patch test reaction rates ranging from 2% to 10%, potentially causing allergic contact dermatitis, particularly in sensitive areas like the eyelids or lips. Some observed reactions during patch testing may also be irritant rather than purely allergic.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Shellac is a valuable film-forming and emollient agent, precisely enhancing cosmetic adhesion and water resistance, yet its moderate sensitization risk necessitates careful formulation, especially for products applied to sensitive skin areas.

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