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Moumoujus

SHEA BUTTER GLYCERIDES.

Valuable CAS 194043-92-0 / EMULSION STABILISING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

Shea Butter Glycerides are a skin-conditioning emollient and self-emulsifying agent derived from shea butter. Rich in fatty acids, they help fortify the skin's barrier, promoting moisture retention and enhancing skin softness and smoothness.

Summary

Emollient Emulsifying Skin-conditioning Hair-conditioning Surfactant - Cleansing Viscosity controlling Emulsion stabilising

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient operates by forming a protective barrier on the skin's surface, which critically impedes transepidermal water loss and thus sustains hydration. Composed of essential fatty acids like oleic, stearic, linoleic, and palmitic acids esterified with glycerin, Shea Butter Glycerides function as emollients and low HLB emulsifiers. They actively condition the skin, supporting its structural integrity and enhancing its texture. Furthermore, these glycerides are recognized for their role in strengthening the skin’s protective barrier, akin to phytoceramides.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Insufficient-data confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Shea Butter Glycerides require warming to melt before incorporation into a formulation, typically added to the hot water phase. While described as completely water-dispersible and functioning as a low HLB emulsifier (4.5-5.5), Safety Data Sheets indicate insolubility in water but solubility in solvents like acetone and hexane. It demonstrates compatibility with surfactant-based systems. Formulators should be mindful that, similar to other shea derivatives, suboptimal crystallization can lead to a grainy texture, and oxidative instability is a potential concern, mitigated by using high-quality derivatives.

Synergies

  • Surfactant-based systems

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • High temperatures near flash point

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed Shea Butter Glycerides, along with other shea-derived ingredients, 'safe as used in the present practices of use and concentration'. While no specific maximum concentration was identified for 'Shea Butter Glycerides' (plural) in the data, a related industry survey indicated use of the singular 'Shea Butter Glyceride' at concentrations up to 0.49%.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Shea Butter Glycerides are a valuable ingredient for enhancing skin barrier function, providing emollient conditioning, and supporting formulation stability across a wide range of cosmetic applications due to their low irritancy and comedogenicity.

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