Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions by binding to specific Epidermal Growth Factor Receptors (EGFRs) present on the surface of skin cells. This specific binding initiates intracellular signaling pathways, which in turn significantly accelerates the production of new skin cells. It enhances the synthesis of critical structural proteins such as collagen and elastin, promotes the proliferation and migration of keratinocytes, endothelial cells, and fibroblasts, and boosts the generation of extracellular matrix components, including hyaluronic acid. This comprehensive action contributes to improved skin barrier function, reduced inflammatory responses, accelerated wound healing, scar reduction, and enhanced skin firmness and elasticity.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 A serum formulated with bioengineered epidermal growth factor demonstrated statistically significant improvements in the appearance of fine lines, rhytids, overall skin texture, pore size, and various dyschromatic conditions within the initial month of use, with continuous enhancement observed over three months.
- 02 Topical application of an EGF serum twice daily over 8 weeks resulted in a 73% reduction in melasma among subjects, with no reported adverse effects.
- 03 In a study involving 20 subjects, an EGF cream applied to half the face for six weeks led to a 33.5% reduction in inflammatory acne lesions.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
There is no specific data available to suggest that SH-OLIGOPEPTIDE-87 is commonly included at sub-efficacious 'dusting' levels within formulations.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Maintaining the biological activity of growth factors such as SH-OLIGOPEPTIDE-87 poses a considerable challenge. In controlled laboratory environments, these ingredients are typically stored at extremely low temperatures, specifically -20°C, to preserve their stability. It is estimated that a substantial portion, potentially as high as 90-95%, of the growth factor activity may be lost when products are stored at typical room temperatures.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has classified 'Epidermal growth factor, human' (which SH-Oligopeptide-1 is considered identical to) with statuses ranging from 'insufficient data' to 'safe with qualifications.' Significant scientific controversy exists regarding cosmetic growth factors due to their inherent mitogenic activity (ability to stimulate cell division), and EGF signaling is frequently observed in tumor cells. Therefore, growth factor-mimetic applications warrant extreme caution due to a potential for tumorigenesis if overexpression or dysregulation occurs. While EGFs are not considered mutagenic, SH-Oligopeptide-1 is currently authorized for generalized cosmetic use at various concentrations, yet its long-term risks remain largely unknown. Furthermore, its preclinical bioactivity specifically as a cosmetic ingredient has not been conclusively established, and active EGF used at medical concentrations is classified as a potent, unauthorized drug.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Despite promising in vitro and limited clinical findings for skin regeneration and anti-aging, SH-OLIGOPEPTIDE-87 presents significant challenges regarding its poor stability, unconfirmed long-term bioactivity in cosmetics, and unresolved safety concerns about its mitogenic potential and unknown long-term risks, making its use highly questionable for a precision skincare brand.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…