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Moumoujus

SESQUIOCTYLDODECYL LAUROYL GLUTAMATE.

Insufficient Data / CLEANSING, EMULSION STABILISING, HUMECTANT, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

SESQUIOCTYLDODECYL LAUROYL GLUTAMATE is a biomimetic lipid with a ceramide-like structure, engineered to enhance the skin barrier and provide comprehensive moisturization. It functions as an effective emollient and skin-conditioning agent, crucial for maintaining skin integrity and hydration.

Summary

Emollient Skin-Conditioning Agent Humectant Moisturizing Agent Skin Barrier Reinforcement

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient operates as a sophisticated emollient and humectant, closely mimicking the skin's natural lipids. Its ceramide-like molecular structure facilitates integration into the intercellular matrix, where it forms lamellar liquid crystals with a bilayer membrane. This organized structure reinforces the skin's barrier function, significantly reducing transepidermal water loss and protecting against environmental aggressors. Furthermore, it exhibits excellent humectant properties and a high water-binding capacity, filling gaps between epidermal cells and forming a protective film to maintain hydration and shield the skin from irritants.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range 0.5–25.6%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 In a 28-day human in-use test, a product containing 0.5% Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate (a close variant) applied to the eye area by 30 female subjects resulted in no adverse clinical signs or reported skin/eye discomfort, demonstrating good acceptability.
  2. 02 An in vitro cell viability assay utilizing EpiSkin™ reconstituted human epidermis predicted a product containing 1% Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate (a close variant) to be non-irritating.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

No data regarding 'dusting' properties of this ingredient was found in the research.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

No specific stability notes were provided in the research data.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Insufficient data
Max tested
25.6%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that the available data are insufficient to make a determination of safety for the group of phytosteryl glutamates, which includes this ingredient's close variant, under intended cosmetic use conditions. Maximum reported use concentrations for related variants can be as high as 25.6% in leave-on products. While the ingredient's presence in FDA VCRP data indicates cosmetic use, this does not constitute FDA safety approval. Concerns regarding heavy metal impurities were also noted by the Panel.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Insufficient Data

SESQUIOCTYLDODECYL LAUROYL GLUTAMATE shows promise as an emollient and barrier-supporting ingredient due to its ceramide-like mechanism and low irritancy in limited studies, however, its overall safety under cosmetic use conditions remains unconfirmed by the CIR Expert Panel due to insufficient data.

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