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Ingredient directory

Sesamide Dea

Sesamide DEA is a diethanolamide derivative primarily utilized in cosmetic formulations as a surfactant and foam booster. It also functions effectively as a viscosity-enhancing agent and emulsifier, contributing to the texture and stability of various personal care products.

Directory entry · Individual source review pending

This profile is awaiting an individual source review. Treat its ratings, dose estimates and compatibility labels as provisional; they are not medical advice or proof of a finished product’s effects.

Surfactant Foam Boosting Viscosity Controlling Emulsifier Cleansing Agent

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions by lowering the surface tension between different phases, allowing for effective cleansing and improved foam quality. As a diethanolamide, Sesamide DEA can undergo hydrolysis by skin amidases, potentially yielding diethanolamine (DEA) and corresponding fatty acids, which is a critical consideration for its use.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Sesamide DEA provides multiple functional benefits (surfactant, foam booster, viscosity controller) at effective concentrations, making it unlikely to be included merely as a 'dusting' ingredient for marketing purposes.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 9.5 – 10.5
0 7 14

Stability

Sesamide DEA exhibits stability under typical storage conditions. However, as a diethanolamide, it is susceptible to hydrolysis in strongly acidic or basic environments, which can impact its integrity and potentially increase free diethanolamine levels.

Conflicts

  • Ingredients known to form N-nitroso compounds
  • Anhydrides
  • Isocyanates
  • Peroxides
  • Halogenated organics
  • Epoxides
  • Acidic phenols
  • Acid halides
  • Strong reducing agents (e.g., hydrides, which can produce flammable gaseous hydrogen)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Sensitization risk Unknown

The CIR Expert Panel deems diethanolamides, including Sesamide DEA, safe for use when formulations are non-irritating and the concentration of free diethanolamine (DEA) is carefully controlled. A general recommendation for similar ingredients is to limit free ethanolamine release to 5%. Of critical concern is that free DEA can react with nitrosating agents to form N-nitroso compounds, which are undesirable. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) classifies DEA itself as 'possibly carcinogenic to humans' (Group 2B), emphasizing the paramount importance of minimizing its free content in final products. Therefore, strict adherence to formulation guidelines to prevent DEA liberation and N-nitroso compound formation is essential.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Questionable

While Sesamide DEA offers valuable functional properties as a surfactant and viscosity enhancer, its potential to degrade into diethanolamine (DEA) and the risk of forming N-nitroso compounds make its inclusion questionable without rigorous formulation control and careful consideration of alternative ingredients.

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