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S-MUSSEL OLIGOPEPTIDE-1.

Avoid / SKIN CONDITIONING

S-Mussel Oligopeptide-1, also recognized as Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) or sh-Oligopeptide-1, functions as a potent cell-communicating and skin-identical ingredient. This polypeptide is designed to stimulate cellular regeneration processes, promoting the synthesis of essential structural proteins within the skin. Its mechanism aims to enhance overall skin vitality and appearance.

Skin-identical ingredient Cell-communicating ingredient Anti-aging Skin regeneration Barrier support Moisturizing Skin repair

Science

As a cellular signal molecule, S-Mussel Oligopeptide-1 precisely binds to specific epidermal growth factor receptors (EGFR) on the surface of skin cells. This binding initiates intricate intracellular pathways, accelerating the production of new skin cells and stimulating the synthesis of crucial structural proteins such as collagen and elastin. This action drives skin regeneration, enhances skin barrier function, and boosts the production of extracellular matrix components like hyaluronic acid, leading to improvements in skin firmness, elasticity, and long-term hydration.


Research

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical trials utilizing sh-Oligopeptide-1 formulations have demonstrated statistically significant improvements in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, skin texture, pore size, and various dyschromatic conditions within the initial month of use, with continued improvements observed over three months.
  2. 02 An EGF-containing cream was shown to significantly increase skin moisture and elasticity, alongside a decrease in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after one week, indicating enhanced skin barrier function.
  3. 03 One study reported a 73% reduction in melasma over 8 weeks in subjects applying a topical EGF serum twice daily, with no reported side effects.
  4. 04 An EGF cream reduced inflammatory acne lesions by 33.5% over a six-week period in a study involving 20 subjects.
  5. 05 However, a systematic review concluded that clinical studies on sh-Oligopeptide-1 for cosmetic purposes lack a strong scientific basis, citing unproven preclinical bioactivity and unknown long-term risks for its use as a cosmetic ingredient.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

This ingredient is highly sensitive to pH, necessitating that the cream's pH is adjusted to between 5.0 and 8.0 before its incorporation. To maintain activity, it must be added as the final step in formulation, at temperatures below 45°C. Strict measures are essential to prevent microbial contamination, which can lead to enzymatic decomposition and loss of activity.


Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Unknown

S-Mussel Oligopeptide-1 is not currently listed on EWG's Restricted or Unacceptable Lists, and some evaluations suggest it is not likely carcinogenic in humans. However, substantial concerns exist regarding its classification as a 'growth factor.' Overexpression or dysregulation of growth factors, including EGF signaling, is implicated in numerous tumor cells, raising the potential for tumorigenesis. Consequently, any cosmetic application mimicking growth factors should be approached with extreme caution. In vitro tests on mammalian cells have demonstrated positive mutation results linked to cancer. Furthermore, early studies have associated its use with conditions like psoriasis and general skin irritation, potentially due to excessive skin cell proliferation. While authorized as a cosmetic ingredient in various concentrations, its long-term risks remain unknown, and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has not published a specific 'safe as used' assessment for this molecule with a defined maximum concentration.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Avoid

Despite some individual studies reporting benefits, S-Mussel Oligopeptide-1's cosmetic efficacy lacks robust scientific consensus, and significant safety concerns, including potential tumorigenesis and unknown long-term risks, render it unsuitable for precision skincare.


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