Science
Mechanism of Action
Rose extract operates through several precise mechanisms to optimize skin health. It activates specific skin olfactory receptors (ORs), such as OR10A6, OR11H4, and OR2AG2, leading to increased intracellular cAMP levels that protect skin cells against environmental stress mediators. Rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, and ascorbic acid (Vitamins A, C, E), it offers robust antioxidant protection by neutralizing free radicals and mitigating oxidative stress. Its anti-inflammatory action is evidenced by cytokine suppression and reduction of sUV-induced COX-2 expression. Furthermore, it acts as a natural humectant to draw and retain moisture, contains astringents like phenyl ethyl alcohol and tannins to refine pores and balance oil, and supports skin rejuvenation while exhibiting anti-wrinkle effects through MMP-1 suppression.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence0.005%
Key findings
- 01 Protected skin against stress mediators ex vivo and in vivo by activating skin olfactory receptors (ORs), increasing intracellular cAMP levels.
- 02 Triggered a dose-dependent increase in cAMP levels in keratinocytes expressing OR10A6, OR11H4, and OR2AG2.
- 03 Exerted strong antioxidant effects through cytokine suppression in epidermal cell lines exposed to sUV, reducing sUV-induced COX-2 expression.
- 04 Impacted the expression of epidermal clock genes in normal human keratinocytes.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While specific cellular pathways like olfactory receptor activation can be triggered at concentrations as low as 0.00001%, broader skin conditioning, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory benefits are typically observed at higher percentages, making formulations below this minimal activation threshold potentially ineffective for comprehensive benefits.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Optimal pH range for Rose Canina extract is 4-7. Rose water often helps restore skin's optimal pH between 4.5 and 5.5. During extraction, a pH of 4.5-5.5 is commonly used. Rose extract is typically added to the water phase of formulations. For oil extracts, incorporating oxygen-trapping compounds or metal chelators can enhance oxidative stability.
Conflicts
- Retinoids (due to rose extract's natural Vitamin A content)
- Strong astringents like witch hazel (as rose water is a milder astringent)
- Fragrance allergens (citronellol, geraniol) for individuals with very sensitive skin
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Panel concluded that Rosa damascena-derived ingredients are safe when formulated to be non-sensitizing. Certain volatile components, such as citronellol and geraniol, are known fragrance allergens and must be declared in EU cosmetic products if they exceed specific thresholds (0.001% in leave-on, 0.01% in rinse-off). These fragrant compounds may induce irritation in sensitive skin, potentially leading to burning, redness, or itching. The US FDA generally recognizes various Rosa species extracts as safe (GRAS) for their intended use in foods.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Rose Extract is a valuable, multi-functional ingredient that precisely addresses skin stress, inflammation, and hydration, offering broad benefits across all skin types when formulated conscientiously.
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References
Sources