Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions as a cell-communicating agent and antioxidant. The retinyl palmitate component, a retinoid, binds to retinoid receptors, stimulating cell differentiation and growth, improving collagen production, and regulating skin normalization to smooth texture and reduce wrinkles. The polypeptide component activates the skin's natural repair mechanisms, stimulating regeneration and strengthening skin structure. Together, they promote free radical scavenging, moisturizing, firming, and toning, contributing to a comprehensive anti-aging effect and helping to keep pores clear.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Reported to exhibit lower dermal toxicity, be milder, and more readily absorbed into the skin compared to equal levels of unconjugated retinyl palmitate.
- 02 Noted for additional stability and an advanced delivery system, optimizing its suitability for anti-aging skincare.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The conjugated form, often sold under the trade name Vitazyme™ A, provides enhanced stability and an advanced delivery system. While unconjugated retinyl palmitate is prone to oxidation by heat, light, moisture, and air, this conjugate offers improved resilience. Optimal stability is observed within a pH range of 5.6 to 7.0; stability declines at pH levels outside this range (e.g., pH 4.0 or 8.0 for retinyl palmitate in gels), with peptide oxidation accelerating at pH > 7.
Conflicts
- oxidizing agents
- strong acids
- strong bases
- copper
- copper alloys
- iron
- iron salts
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel considers Retinyl Palmitate safe for cosmetic use, with a general limit of up to 5%. However, an FDA study suggests that retinyl palmitate applied to the skin in sunlight may accelerate skin tumor and lesion development. The FDA also advises caution regarding high levels of Vitamin A during pregnancy due to potential fetal toxicity. The SCCS has proposed stricter limits for Retinol Equivalents (RE) in products, such as 0.05% RE in body lotions and 0.3% RE in hand and face creams. Importantly, this specific conjugate is reported to have lower dermal toxicity and be milder than equal levels of unconjugated retinyl palmitate.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This advanced retinoid-peptide conjugate offers a milder approach to anti-aging, promoting skin regeneration, firmness, and an even tone with enhanced stability and delivery, making it a valuable addition to precision skincare formulations.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…