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Moumoujus

PSORALEA CORYLIFOLIA SEED POWDER.

Avoid / SKIN CONDITIONING

Psoralea Corylifolia Seed Powder, derived from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, holds historical significance in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine for various dermatological applications. However, its use in contemporary skincare formulations is unequivocally unadvised due to the presence of highly dangerous phototoxic compounds.

Summary

Melanoblast stimulation (traditionally for repigmentation, but with severe phototoxic risks) Antioxidant (observed traditionally, but not recommended for cosmetic use) Antibacterial (observed traditionally, but not recommended for cosmetic use) Anti-inflammatory (observed traditionally, but not recommended for cosmetic use) Antifungal (observed traditionally, but not recommended for cosmetic use)

Science

Mechanism of Action

This powder contains furocoumarins, predominantly psoralen, which primarily functions by stimulating melanoblasts, the pigment-forming cells in the skin. This action, traditionally leveraged for repigmentation in conditions like vitiligo, significantly sensitizes the skin to UV light, thereby enhancing pigment formation under sunlight exposure. Additionally, it exhibits minor antioxidant activity due to flavonoids and coumarins, alongside mild antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antifungal properties.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Due to its severe inherent phototoxicity and genotoxicity, even minimal concentrations of Psoralea Corylifolia Seed Powder pose significant health risks. Therefore, the concept of 'dusting' this ingredient for superficial claims is irrelevant, as any presence is considered a serious safety concern and should be avoided.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

The paramount stability concern for products containing Psoralea Corylifolia Seed Powder is its extreme phototoxicity; such formulations become severely damaging and unstable upon exposure to UV light or direct sunlight.

Conflicts

  • UV light/sunlight exposure (causes severe phototoxicity, blistering, hyperpigmentation, DNA damage, and significantly increases cancer risk)
  • Misrepresentation as Bakuchiol (Bakuchiol is a distinct, safe compound, whereas Psoralea Corylifolia Seed Extract/Powder contains harmful psoralens).

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk High

Regulatory bodies, including the CIR panel and the EMA, have voiced significant concerns regarding the genotoxic and severe phototoxic properties of psoralen-containing extracts derived from Psoralea corylifolia seeds. The furocoumarins within, particularly psoralen and isopsoralen, are highly phototoxic. Topical application followed by UV exposure leads to severe skin damage, including blistering, persistent hyperpigmentation, and extensive DNA damage. This damage is associated with mutagenicity and a heightened risk of skin cancers, such as squamous cell carcinoma, basal cell carcinoma, and melanoma. The FDA does not recognize Psoralea Corylifolia Seed Extract as safe or effective for over-the-counter cosmetic use. Furthermore, repeated systemic exposure to hydroalcoholic seed extract has been linked to toxic effects on vital organs, including the liver and kidneys. Due to these severe risks, use during pregnancy or lactation is strongly advised against, though not explicitly reviewed by a specific panel.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy High
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Avoid

This ingredient contains highly phototoxic and genotoxic furocoumarins that cause severe skin damage, increase cancer risk, and render it definitively unsuitable for any cosmetic application.

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