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Moumoujus

PSEUDOZYMA EPICOLA/ROSA CANINA FRUIT OIL FERMENT EXTRACT.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

This innovative ingredient integrates the nutrient-rich Rosa Canina Fruit Oil with a Pseudozyma Epicola fermentation process. This unique bio-transformation breaks down the oil's components, significantly increasing its nutritional value and enhancing beneficial free fatty acids, resulting in superior skin absorption and a non-greasy feel.

Summary

Skin conditioning Emollient Antioxidant Humectant

Science

Mechanism of Action

The Pseudozyma Epicola fermentation process strategically breaks down components of Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, leading to the generation of various polysaccharides and lipids, and an increased free fatty acid content. This molecular enhancement facilitates quicker skin absorption and confers a lighter, less occlusive sensation, while also improving emulsification properties. It functions as a humectant, effectively drawing and retaining moisture to keep the skin hydrated, and as a conditioning agent to promote soft, smooth, and radiant skin. The inherent benefits of the Rosa Canina Fruit Oil component, abundant in essential fatty acids, vitamins (C and E), and potent antioxidants, work to deeply nourish, hydrate, improve skin elasticity, mitigate the appearance of fine lines, brighten complexion, stimulate collagen synthesis, and provide anti-inflammatory benefits to soothe skin irritations.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 A cosmetic product formulated with 0.0975% Rosa Canina Fruit Extract was assessed as non-irritating in a 48-hour occlusive patch test conducted on adult subjects.
  2. 02 Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, at a concentration of 0.3% solids (from a butylene glycol extract), was demonstrated to be non-irritating in a skin irritation test involving rabbits and exhibited no skin sensitization potential in guinea pigs.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Fermented oils typically exhibit improved emulsification characteristics. Stability studies on Rosa Canina seed oil-loaded liposomes have shown stability for 14 days at 4°C without significant changes in size.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
0.65%
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel has concluded that Rosa Canina-derived ingredients, including Rosa Canina Fruit Extract and Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, are safe for cosmetic practices when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing. The maximum reported concentration for Rosa Canina Fruit Extract in cosmetics is up to 0.65%. While this specific ferment extract has not been individually assessed by CIR, its Rosa Canina components are deemed safe. Pseudozyma Epicola holds a safe rating from the Environmental Working Group (EWG). SkinSAFE further indicates similar Pseudozyma Epicola ferment filtrates (e.g., with olive oil) as 'Irritant Free', 'Teen SAFE', 'Lip SAFE', 'Baby SAFE', and 'Eyelid SAFE'.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

This fermented oil extract offers enhanced absorption and a wide range of nourishing, hydrating, and protective benefits, making it a valuable addition for diverse skin types and concerns.

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