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Moumoujus

PRASTERONE.

Questionable CAS 53-43-0 / SKIN CONDITIONING

Prasterone, also known as dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA), is an inactive endogenous steroid hormone that undergoes local conversion within the skin. This unique mechanism allows it to rejuvenate aging skin by enhancing sebum production, improving epidermal thickness, and stimulating collagen synthesis.

Summary

anti-aging skin brightening epidermal thickening collagen stimulation sebum regulation

Science

Mechanism of Action

Upon topical application, Prasterone is locally metabolized within the skin's tissues into active androgens and/or estrogens. This targeted conversion increases sebum production and enhances epidermal thickness, contributing to improved skin brightness and a reduction in the characteristic 'papery' appearance and atrophy of aging skin. Furthermore, DHEA supports procollagen production by boosting its synthesis and inhibiting collagen degradation through decreasing matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 activity while increasing tissue inhibitor of matrix metalloprotease (TIMP)-1 production. It also offers protective benefits against UV-induced MMP-1 production and associated collagen synthesis reduction.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

1%

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Conflicts

  • May compromise the integrity of latex barrier birth control methods (e.g., condoms), particularly relevant for vaginal formulations.
  • Contraindicated for individuals with hormone-sensitive conditions, including a history of, or known/suspected, breast cancer, uterine cancer, ovarian cancer, endometriosis, or uterine fibroids, due to its potential to increase estrogen levels.
  • Should not be used in cases of unexplained uterine bleeding.
  • Potential for interactions with other medications, requiring careful consideration.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Pregnancy
Caution
Sensitization risk Unknown

Prasterone is FDA-approved as a prescription vaginal insert (Intrarosa) for treating specific menopausal symptoms. However, the FDA advises against its use in individuals with a history of, or suspected, breast cancer and contraindicates its use in cases of unexplained uterine bleeding. Its safety as a general cosmetic ingredient has not been evaluated by major review bodies like the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) or the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS).

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Questionable

While Prasterone shows promising clinical efficacy for improving signs of aging skin, its hormonal activity and significant contraindications, coupled with its 'not reviewed' status by cosmetic safety bodies, make its general use in cosmetic formulations highly questionable without precise medical oversight.

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